This gastropub in Clerkenwell is not just notable for being Harpers' ‘Wine Pub of the Year’, it also offers a fantastic modern British menu.

The Venue
The building is a classic red-brick Victorian pub, just off the Farringdon Road in Clerkenwell. Inside, the décor is uninspiring: wooden paneled walls and plain wooden furniture give the pub a dated feel. Despite that, it is clear that a lot of love and care has gone into this pub. The walls are covered in old maps of the local area and a shelf, running the length of the pub, is filled with tiny ornaments; each one is a memento from the childhood of the pub’s owner.

The Atmosphere
The clientele is a mixture of drinker and diners, but with the emphasis firmly on the food, there are more of the latter. The pub isn’t always as full as it should be given the quality of the food, so you shouldn’t find it hard to get a table. Staff are friendly and attentive.

The Food
If the interior of this pub is unassuming and a little dated, it’s because all of the effort has been put into the menu. Practically everything on the menu is produced in-house: from the bread to the pies and even the curing of hams – it all goes on in the pub’s kitchens. Starters include smoked duck breast with Earl Grey chocolate shavings and sloe jelly (£6.75). Wafer-thin slices of earthy beetroot are added to complement the smoky flavour of the duck. Devilled Cornish crab with toast and watercress (£7.50) is fantastic; the rich crab sits in a subtly spiced tomato sauce and is served on crisp granary toast.

For mains, the salted pollock with parsley cream, ratte potatoes, leeks and fennel (£13.25) is beautifully presented, with a stack of vibrant colours served on a wooden board. The fish is firm with an intensely salty flavour which goes beautifully with the lightly charred fennel. In addition, the Welsh black rump steak with tarragon butter is lovely but noticeably not warm enough. It’s served with beautifully cooked chips and a generous helping of spicy watercress (£14.50). There are more starters and mains on the daily specials board.

The well-balanced portions mean that you can eat three courses, which is a good job, because missing out on the buttermilk pudding with roasted pear puree and doughnuts (£6.50) would be a travesty. This light, sweet and milky dessert combined with the cinnamon-coated doughnuts is simply divine.

The cheeseboard has a varied selection, including Sainte Maure de Touraine (goats’ cheese), Vacherin (soft) and Grand Jura (the best of the bunch, a mature and fruity hard cheese) served with home-made oat biscuits and preserves (£8.25).

The Drink
The Coach and Horses was Harpers’ ‘Wine Pub of the Year’ 2010 and, as you would expect, the pub has an extensive wine list. The pub promotes a ‘Don’t drink more, drink better’ philosophy and bottles of wine start at £13.75, with an additional ‘Fine Wine’ list offering a selection of wines for up to £336. There are also ‘wines of the week’. The McHenry Honen Shiraz (£18.95) is a very tasty, full-bodied red with plenty of spice. There’s a decent choice of beers too. Alongside the usual lagers is a selection of ales, including the most excellent Timothy Taylor Landlord, a light and refreshing hoppy ale for £3.75 per pint.

The Last Word
The Coach and Horses is certainly deserving of the title of gastropub; the food is excellent. A fantastic dining experience.

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