46 South Molton Street,
Mayfair,
London,
W1K 5RX
(020) 7495 1177
The ViewLondon Review
Vegetarians beware! A barbeque meat master has arrived in W1, sending hungry carnivores on a Brazilian-themed feeding frenzy.
The Venue
Comida, an authentic Brazilian churrascaria, is situated amongst the glamorous boutiques of South Molton Street, a curious location for what is essentially a barbeque pit. Comida is proving popular amongst the barbeque fans of London. The clean-lined interior is minimalist in style and decorated with steel and reddish brown walls, furnished with red and ash trappings plus the odd wooden painted cow skull adding a touch of authentic detail. The open barbeque takes centre stage with the hot and cold buffet opposite. There’s additional seating downstairs which is generally open at the weekend and also doubles as a private function room.
The Atmosphere
As soon as you walk in the heady scent of smoky, char grilled meat hits you. It’s surprisingly busy and the clientele is a good mix of hungry men in for a meat fix, lively birthday gatherings plus a handful of straight-from-the-office couples. The food is served by handsome staff swathed in black who are both friendly and attentive, but all have a tendency to tease about the meats on offer (‘Sadly, the zebra is off this evening’). Maybe it’s down to the casual style of dining, (or the lively South American pop tunes) but there seems to be a party atmosphere even mid-week, which is sure to be exaggerated at the weekend.
The Food
Comida offers a very simple concept in dining called rodizio, a Brazilian style of eating where waiters carve skewers of barbequed meat at your table. There are no menus and no limits to how much food you can eat. In fact, the staff actively encourage guests to take their time over the meal, which is refreshing in our get ‘em in, get ‘em out dining society. The deal is you pay one price for lunch (£16.90) and one for dinner from 6pm (£19.90 – children are a few pounds cheaper) and this will give you unlimited barbequed meats plus hot and cold salads and vegetable dishes from the buffet. Each guest has a two-sided disc to control the pace of the meal. Each side has a different saying, such as Bring It On on the green side, a signal for the staff to bring skewers of meat to the table. When you need a rest or are finished, turn the disc over to reveal the red side, which says things like Ok, You Win!, to give yourself a break and keep the food on your plate from getting cold.
There are currently 12 to 14 different skewers on offer including a delicious handmade sausage which is bursting with herby flavour. The chicken wings are well-cooked with deliciously crispy skin and soft tender flesh. One of the specialities is called cupin, a cut from the hump of the cow. It’s slow cooked for 7 hours in the bottom of the barbeque and has a distinct sweet flavour and a delicate, if a little fatty, texture.
Another house speciality is the picanha, marinated rump of best Brazilian bovine. The meat is cooked how you like it and the medium-rare is incredibly tender with a deep grassy flavour. The skewer is then taken away and marinated again in fresh garlic to finish off and is returned to the table with an even more exceptional flavour. Other meaty treats include a rich herby leg of lamb and chicken pieces wrapped in bacon. You won’t find any exotic meats here (despite what the waiters tell you) but it is all perfectly cooked and has a real smoky depth of flavour.
To accompany this iron-boosting meat-fest are two buffets, one with hot vegetables including fried whole new potatoes, feijoda (traditional black bean stew with pork), char grilled courgettes and baked tomatoes stuffed with mushrooms and cheese. The cold salad bar offers around six to eight dishes including a Greek salad and a lovely fresh salsa of chopped peppers, tomatoes and onions. The fresh chilli sauces are well worth a try. The green is less fiery than the red but both are bursting with South American flavour. There are a couple of dessert options on offer, for those who can squeeze it in, an almond sponge cake, which is soft and strangely generic in taste and a similar tasting chocolate cake. Both are only £4 yet unremarkable.
The Drink
Considering the exclusive location the drinks menu is surprisingly reasonable. South American beers start from £4 a bottle and include Quilmes from Argentina and Brahma Negra Modelo. A handful of regional cocktails are also on hand (all at £6). The classic Caipirinha, Brazil’s national tipple, and the Pisco Sour are just a couple of examples of the South American influence
The house wine, a 2008 sauvignon blanc from Chile, is great value and excellent quality. Served very chilled with a nice crisp fruity taste, it’s a steal at £15 a bottle. There are a couple of organic wines on the menu starting from £19, in fact, you’d be hard pushed to spend more than £30 on any decent bottle. However, save the Champagne for celebrations as it’s a pricy £25 for a Spanish cava right up to £90 for a 1999 Bollinger.
The Last Word
A night at Comida is a great way of dining out in these recession-restricted times and gives a refreshing new take on all you can eat. It’s great for large, noisy gatherings, although tofu lovers should beware, as it’s not exactly vegetarian friendly.
Comida has been reviewed by 13 users