The people who brought us the impressive chain of Strada eateries have gone all Gallic, and it looks like they might have even gone one better in the process.

The Venue
This Cote is located on Soho’s Wardour Street, and despite the fact that it can be incredibly loud thanks to the standard Soho sirens, it’s still able to offer a sophisticated dining environment with some great design. It’s not typically French, but the sharp edges of the decor, the dark tones and the modern aesthetic suggest a style that makes it very suitable for the area, offering the perfect environment for a romantic dinner or a relaxed business meal. If, however, you do want to get a little closer to Soho life, Cote boasts some impressive bay windows that open out onto Wardour Street, enabling a nice little Soho take on bistro authenticity. An open plan downstairs area is also available during busier times, and although it lacks the intimacy of upstairs it’s more suitable for larger groups and families. And it keeps them nicely out of the way, of course.

The Atmosphere
Typically for the area, Cote plays host to a variety of visitors, whether they be the suits, the local media types or the tourists delving into the less salubrious parts of London town. Weekday lunchtimes see a vibrant atmosphere generated by a host of local workers, some of whom seem eager to give into the tempting temptation of staying for a large chunk of the afternoon. Evenings and weekends seem more tailored to couples and catch ups, suggesting that the restaurant is suitable for a wide range of dining, whether relaxed and informal, or somewhere where you can impress. There’s a slight French feel to affairs thanks to some superb accents but the emphasis seems to be on offering somewhere that’s sophisticated, stylish and efficient, rather than somewhere that would viably grace the streets of Paris.

The Food
The menu boasts good quality French fare that’s priced really well considering the location, with most starters at around £5 and most mains at about £10. The bread starter of Pissaladiere is especially tasty and a good appetiser, and who ever said the French don’t do pizzas? It’s a traditional flat bread from Nice with sweet caramelised onions, melted Reblochon cheese and a little thyme, with the flavours being deliciously balanced and the texture of the cheese working very well with the crispness of the cooked bread. The calamari is equally impressive, exquisitely cooked to a perfect al dente bite, sauteed in garlic, lemon, parsley and butter and given a gentle breadcrumb coating, and then served with a tangy and refreshing homemade tartare.

The menu’s not a complete success however, as the uninspiring chicken and walnut salad testifies. The avocado, baby gem lettuce, baby spinach, shallots, French beans and walnuts are all very able assistants to the well chargrilled chicken, but you get the feeling this is something that could be very easily replicated. A slightly limp mustard dressing fails to elevate it to anything other than merely satisfactory, which is a shame after such an excellent introduction. Desserts are, as you’d expect from a French restaurant, sublime, with a particular highlight being an outrageously moreish creme caramel. Soft, beautifully formed vanilla pod custard sways and wobbles on the plate but refuses to give way under the weight of a tiny, yet potent, layer of dark caramel. The delicate lightness of the custard with the richness of the chocolatey caramel almost makes this dish a worthwhile reason to visit Cote in itself, regardless of anything else on offer. It’s seriously good.

The Drink
Complimentary water served in a stone carafe on arrival is a nice touch, as is the complimentary peach Geneva liqueur on which you’re encouraged to finish your meal. Purchasable options are good too, with a well thought out wine list that goes from the affordable (the citrusy and vibrant Lagarde Blanc at £12.95) to the indulgent (the Domaine Chante Cigal Chateauneuf-du-Pape at £36.95), with plenty of options in between and plenty of good advice from the knowledgeable staff. There’s a selection of beers available including some good bottled options but it’s the wine list that should be explored if you really want to enjoy yourself.

The Last Word
Hardly traditional, yet hugely enticing, Cote combines good quality French food with a sophisticated modern environment, without ever forcing you to break the bank. Recommended.

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