Cote on Ludgate Hill is the latest branch to open of a chain of French-style brasseries offering a good range of all-day dishes.

The Venue
A stone’s throw from St Paul’s, Cote obviously benefits from tourists and other visitors to the area. It’s a large space on two floors, with a basement playing host to an even larger room on split levels that would be ideal for parties. The colour scheme is fairly subdued with neutral black, brown and white, and the décor throughout is dominated by metalwork and glass set against mirrors and marble table tops. There is a central bar on the ground floor and on warmer days you can even eat outside while gazing at the cathedral.

The Atmosphere
Lunchtime is busy with many tourists and local business people dominating the clientele. Tables are parked fairly close together, so there isn't a great deal of intimacy but it's not at all distracting or uncomfortable. With diners coming and going at all times, the ambience is buzzy and quite friendly, and the helpful staff are kept busy but they show no signs of flagging even at the height of the rush hour.

The Food
Breakfast (£3.80-£8.10) offers baguettes, crepes, croque monsieur or madame, eggs Benedict, Florentine or Royale and a full English. From 3pm to 7pm Monday to Friday there’s a menu at £9.95 for two courses or £11.90 for three courses, with four choices in each course. The main menu has light dishes (£8.55-£11.95) including risotto, salads, salmon and fishcakes, whilst the grill (£9.95-£17.95) offers poulet Breton, corn-fed chicken with frites and Peak District steaks with a choice of sauces.

The plats rapides are quick dishes for those on the run – steak, chicken or mussels with frites. Among the starters (£4.35-£7.80) are moules mariniere, prawn gratinée, seared scallops, foie gras and goat’s cheese tartine. The rillettes consist of a shredded duck and pork pate with toasted sourdough bread, shallots and cornichons – good comfort food that's very satisfying, with the well-flavoured pate served in a tiny jar with fine fresh bread. The calamari arrive in their own skillet, a mound of delicious breadcrumbed seafood sautéed in garlic, lemon and parsley, served piping hot with tartare sauce: a very good appetiser.

Main meat and fish courses (£10-95-£13.25) include duck confit, beef Bourguignon, rump of lamb, cod goujons and seabass. Among the specials, roasted venison loin (£18.95) is a beautifully tender cut with a pepper crust producing luscious slices of nicely pink meat draped over a hillock of braised red cabbage with tartiflette potatoes - hot spuds with onions, garlic, bacon and melted cheese: an excellent accompaniment.

Roasted haddock (£12.95) is a thick chunk of fish roasted to perfection, served on crushed new potatoes with baby leeks, carrots and a creamy leek sauce in what's a stunningly good dish. In the desserts (£4.50-£5.15) crème caramel is rich caramel custard, thick and creamy, whilst the crepes with Grand Marnier are a picture; folded over ice cream with fresh orange segments arranged like a clock face: truly toothsome.

The Drink
Fifteen whites, seventeen reds and three rosés make up a good range of French bottles priced from £13.95 for the house wines to £45 for the white Meursault 2007 and £69 for the red Chateau Talbot 2006, with many others under £20 a bottle. Some are available by the glass from £4.10, with champagne starting at just £5.95 a glass. The Lalande Rouge 2009 at £13.95 is exceptionally drinkable and goes well with both the haddock and the venison.

The Last Word
For an ever-expanding chain of restaurants Cote seems one of the best as it feels individual and not at all institutional in style, food or presentation. This new branch is most welcome.

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