The food might not be perfect but the glorious setting and captivating sense of history ensure The Criterion remains a restaurant worthy of its impressive past – if not necessarily its lofty moniker.

The Venue
With a history stretching back to the 19th century, and a plum spot right in the heart of Piccadilly, The Criterion boasts some pretty illustrious renown, not least with out of towners who marvel at such a classic British dining room. And well they might, for it’s a venue with an almost palatial interior dominated by an incredible ceiling that dazzles with golden mosaic. It positively stinks of history, with whispers of the great and good of Britain’s past combining with the glorious neo-Byzantine architecture, the swathes of marble, the immaculate napery and the rich, ruby red carpet to create somewhere that feels so quintessentially British it’s almost a parody of itself. It is, though, undeniably impressive, and the sort of venue that won’t just wow those tourists with very exact preconceptions of what constitutes the best in our fair isles.

The Atmosphere
A grand setting like this often produces rarefied silence but the sheer sense of occasion (with plenty of people celebrating) makes for a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere. The soft and soothing sounds from ivories tinkled down at the bar certainly help, as do the amiable staff, but by and large everybody just seems remarkably relaxed. Whether that’s down to a multitude of well-to-do tourists less prone to awkward reverential reserve as us Brits is difficult to say, but it certainly makes things pleasantly – and surprisingly - informal.

The Food
Now under the aegis of a Georgian operation (who took it off Marco Pierre White’s hands back in 2009) The Criterion won’t have too many of its culinary peers quaking in their boots. Whilst head chef Matthew Foxon’s menu is perfectly good in parts – and even very good in others – there are aspects of it that suffer from poor execution, and others that are simply too experimental for the kind of clientele that this place attracts.

The Galloway beef tartare, for example (a too-large starter - £11), with cucumber, carrot, baby beetroot and quail’s egg features some obviously impressive components, but a scattering of salty caramel popcorn is probably a step too far. The dish's real problem, though, is the (unadvertised) addition of popping candy: you get the impression it could frighten the life out of some diners – primarily those without much left.

But if that suffers from trying too hard then a plate of pig and pea (£23.50) doesn't try enough. The Gloucester Old Spot loin is overcooked; the belly merely adequate; the black pudding inexplicably wrapped in cheese pastry; and the crackling more like one large and not very good pork scratching. The pea puree, however, is lovely.

Perhaps these are simply bad choices though, as some of the menu hits some admirable heights. The smoked salmon and eel (£12) is really good, with a well-judged horseradish mousse and a pretty little salad of mixed cress, whilst a bouillabaisse (£21) is very impressive, thanks to an impeccably balanced, rich broth playing host to fresh, perfectly timed mussels, crab, mullet and turbot.

Desserts are also pretty good, with a very fine malva pudding (£9) offset nicely by a mixed berry compote and some judiciously restrained cognac ice cream; and mixed berry crème brulee (£9) getting everything spot on.

The Drink
Gone are the days when you’d have to break the bank just to get the cheapest bottle, with The Criterion now hosting a much more sensible wine list comprising plenty of affordable bins to complement those heading toward – and hitting - the extravagant.

There’s a fair few available by the glass too, including a good Les Perles Viognier that shows a relatively hefty mark up at £7.50, but not one to raise eyebrows too far. If you’re looking to keep things affordable then the Spanish options are good bets (notably a white Rioja from Marques de Riscal at £29 and a decent Albarino from San Campino at £34) but there’s obviously lots of scope for spending big if you so wish.

The Last Word
The Criterion is such a magnificent venue, with such an illustrious history and beguiling atmosphere, that it’s hard not to recommend it. So consider it recommended, if you can handle the hit and miss food.

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