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The Londoner's Guide to London
05 September 2008
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Daphnes

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112 Draycott Avenue,
London,
SW3 3AE

(020) 7589 4257 

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byCandice Temple11/04/2008
This welcoming and tasteful restaurant has been famous since the sixties. Recently acquired by the group that runs legendary high-class restaurants such as The Ivy and The Caprice, it will seduce you with its elegant simplicity before you’ve even tasted the food.

The Venue
The discreet entrance opposite Jimmy Choo’s in exclusive Draycott Place leads you into a very long room with antiqued stone walls that evoke memories of Florence in the setting sun. Soft wall lights complement the look and the room ends in a conservatory with a comforting open fire. The room is delightful, but stops short of being formal, so you feel instantly comfortable and relaxed. If you’re lucky, you’ll find yourself sitting next to an olive tree.

The Atmosphere
This is a place where you enjoy the food, but somehow the atmosphere stimulates you to enjoy the company even more. The service is friendly yet authoritative, inspiring confidence in the culinary experience to follow.

The Food
A recommended starter is the goat’s cheese salad with rocket and beetroot. The wine red and amber coloured baby beetroot give a mild and sweet contrast to the smoky goat's cheese. Together with the very fine cut wild rocket leaves, the plate provides a palette as pretty as a picture. The rocket is so fresh that it has an aromatic flavour devoid of bitterness. The pan-fried red sea prawns have a perfect texture, but are not quite so exciting.

For the main course, try the squid, in an irresistible partnership with Tuscan sausage. It works because the salty spiciness of the sausage complements the creamy simplicity of the squid. Braised meatballs are cooked in a deliciously tangy tomato sauce, with slightly citrus-y overtones. The little meatballs are surprisingly delicate and melt in the mouth.

The slices of pineapple are just sweet enough - combined with coconut and lime sorbet they leave a pleasant freshness on the palate. There are also plenty of more conventional choices, typically iced berries with white hot chocolate sauce and Tiramisu. The ice cream is of good quality, but doesn’t taste homemade. The food has the price tag you’d expect from an establishment of this nature, but hopefully, if you’re reasonably prudent, the bill should not come as a shock. The set lunch menu gives great value – currently three courses for under £20.00.

The Drink
There’s a good variety of wines – all Italian. The heavy and gutsy Salice Salentino is highly recommended. It’s a big, deep and resonant red, and is available in generous helpings by the glass.

The Last Word
A sophisticated restaurant which also manages to be relaxed and welcoming. A visit to Daphnes is a huge treat, a perfect place to launch a love affair with a partner who has style.
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