De Hems café bar offers Dutch courage in the heart of Soho, with a wealth of beers and cheer.

The Venue
Proudly marketed as the only Dutch-style café bar in central London, De Hems is actually an outpost of Chinatown, geographically at least – it can be found on Macclesfield Street, just off Shaftesbury Avenue and a stone's throw away from Cambridge Circus. Inside, the layout in the main room is not dissimilar to the many traditional British pubs in the neighbourhood – high tables and bar stools are arranged towards the front, with booths, sofas and regular tables placed towards the back for more drawn-out conversation and dining. The copper and wood bar stands gleaming near the entrance, with two supporting pillars on either side and metal struts holding authentic beer glasses and steins descending from the ceiling - a strikingly practical touch.

The décor is measured and distinguished, with candles placed in what appear to be fishbowls, and wrought-iron chandeliers providing overhead lighting; meanwhile, in the dining area, framed Vermeer prints sit uneasily next to placards of Dutch beer brands, and blackboards describe the venue's eventful history. Upstairs, the Oyster Room provides additional seating and dining space – so called because Mr. De Hems himself once decorated it with thousands of discarded shells upon returning from sea, the room is slightly less ostentatious these days, but can still hold a decent crowd in relative comfort and serenity, and reprises the ground floors's easy-going charm.

The Atmosphere
De Hems attracts a large Dutch crowd because of its history (it was the headquarters of the Dutch Resistance in the '40s, apparently) and, no less crucially, its beers. But the bar welcomes all-comers, wise move given the proximity to Piccadilly Circus and other tourist destinations, and the customers often serve as an interesting cross-section of central London life. The mood is laid-back and easy-going, if a little raucous towards the early evening when the bar is at its busiest – throughout, the staff remain very level-headed and knowledgeable about the bar's many delights, and the whole place exudes real personality, which is cause for celebration in itself in such a central location.

The Food
The food at De Hems is standard pub fare by and large, albeit served with heart and in sizeable portions - especially the wild boar and chorizo burger, and Cumberland sausage and mash, which are well worth a punt at £9-£11. Those seeking more of a continental menu will have to settle for a token selection of Dutch-themed bar snacks (£3.50-£6), which include such snappy numbers as the frikandel speciaal, a form of currywurst, and kaassoufflle, breaded and fried morsels of Dutch cheese.

The Drink
Of course, the main draw at De Hems is the healthy range of Benelux-sourced beers (£3.50-£4.50) on offer at the bar – these are available both on draught (Veltins and Chimay) and in bottles (Kwak, Vedett and the ominously-titled Delirium Tremens), with informative labels and menus providing the colourful back-stories behind each brew, and authentic pitchers and steins available for use and purchase. Traditional British brands are also available, including London Pride and Doom Bar ales on tap, and the wine list spans the four corners of the world, all at reasonable central London prices.

The Last Word
Distinctive and eccentrically endearing, De Hems is a justified hit with London's Dutch contingent and beer-lovers in general.

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