55-57 The Pavement,
Clapham,
London,
SW4 0JQ
(020) 7498 9128
The ViewLondon Review
Atmospheric, beautifully decorated and embracing food from a number of cultures, Del’Aziz is an Eastern delight full of promise.
The Venue
Although part of a chain, this Clapham incarnation of Del’Aziz is pleasantly surprising in that it has somehow managed to avoid the personality-less, generic interiors that so many of its fellow chain eateries boast. The restaurant has a number of different eating and seating sections, from a bakery for the casual diner to more formal eating area for the more committed, as well as a downstairs bar for those merely after a little refreshment. Resembling what can only be described as an Eastern cave, Del’Aziz is lit dimly by a number of twinkling lamps and candles, and offers various nooks and crannies in which to curl yourself up to soak up the atmosphere and inhale the delicately spiced and sweet aroma that fills the venue.
The Atmosphere
Combining the cultures of Egypt, the Middle East, the Balkans and the central Mediterranean, Del’Aziz creates an exotic dining ambiance that's great for a romantic dinner. As the venue is large there is plenty of space for privacy, even if the polite staff seem keen to seat people close together in one area unless specifically asked. The bakery area and bar areas are, however, busier with a causal feel and would no doubt be great for catching up with friends.
The Food
Del’Aziz offers food from a number of countries, which means that there should be something appetising for almost every palate.
The cold mezze dishes such as tzatziki and hummus are predictable but tasty, and go well with the saffron-tinged bread. The warm mezze is a little more inventive, with offers of minced lamb and apricot pastry cigars, as well as the delicious stuffed baby squid sahanaki slow cooked in a tomato and feta sauce, all for under £6.
There is also a set menu that changes daily and offers three courses for £22. Starters include fried Greek cheese with tomatoes and green olives, and zesty lemon-marinated chicken wings. Mains range from Persian chicken shish and slow-roasted lamb and cumin spiced lentils to the less spicy pomegranate glazed pork belly with saffron mash and spinach. The pork belly is tender and the pomegranate glaze complements it beautifully, adding a sharp sweetness that is unusual and delicious. However, the pork errs on the fatty side, with almost a third of it inedible, which is a great shame.
The tagine from the a la carte menu are a speciality at Del’Aziz. The lamb shank version, with prunes and almonds (£16.50), is quite sweet and the meat tender, but in terms of flavour it is mild - verging on bland. Other options include burgers, various meat shishes and steak of the day.
Desserts are limited to ice creams and a selection of pastries from the bakery, meaning diners have to leave their table to queue up and buy their last course, unless they choose ice cream.
The Drink
The drinks list is extensive offering almost a hundred varieties of wine, as well as a large array of signature, classic and champagne cocktails for less than ten pounds.
The wines can be ordered either by glass or by bottle and come from all over the world, including France, Chile, Italy, Spain, Australia and Lebanon. A respectable number of rosé, prosecco, cava and champagne options are available, but the specialities are undoubtedly the white and red wines. The house Pinot Grigio at £5.50 a glass is easy to drink and refreshing with fruity notes.
The cocktails are inventive and exotic, with options such as the Abbasid Front Liner, which mixes Remy Martin, white crème de cacao, Frangelico, half and half, Chambord and cinnamon dust, and the Alexandrian Rasputin, which includes 42 Below passion fruit vodka, Russian Standard, strawberries, raspberries and passion fruit shaken with cloudy apple and pomegranate juices, with both coming in at under a tenner.
The Last Word
A fantastic venue with an extensive drinks list and exotic atmosphere is let down slightly by its food. The phrase ‘jack of all trades, master of none’ springs to mind.
Del'Aziz has been reviewed by 16 users