There is a quiet revolution under way on London’s south bank. Behind Tate Modern there are three new builds — they look like they were designed by God as a boy with his first Lego set — and, beneath the warrens of poor drones in their spanking offices, there are myriad of eateries. One such is Del'Aziz, an offshoot from the company’s Fulham and Swiss Cottage establishments slumming down south.

The Venue
You know those rather quaint little general stores you find in Ireland’s outer reaches, which sell everything from flour to colanders to wellies and have a tiny bar tucked handily at the back? Well, Del'Aziz is a bit like that, but on a larger, more exotic scale. Ok, it’s not like that at all. But it comprises a deli and take-out counter, bakery, restaurant and a shop, where you can buy spices, tagines, tea and interestingly shaped bronze-coloured things that probably have no function but are strangely covetable. It has outside seating (please ignore the current weather forecast) and hubble-bubble pipes.

The Atmosphere
The staff are warm and friendly and keen to help; they immediately endear themselves by swooping on your table with a huge basket of different breads and positively insist you take several pieces. There’s a belly dancer on Friday and Saturday evenings, who’s every bit as beautiful and mischievous as belly dancers should be. You can try to hide at the back if you like, but she’ll find you.

The Food
Mezze. Kebabs. Tagines. Kefta. Boreck (no, not Obama, he’s Barack). Unpronounceable Persian dishes involving lady fingers. More couscous than you can shake a stick at. Burgers. Whoa! Burgers? But actually the burgers are wondrous to behold. They don’t come with chips — although, if you must, you can order those separately — and they’re huge and juicy with a variety of options and you can double your burger meat for £3. Genius. Everything tastes tinglingly fresh. Do try the olives; the house marinade is divinely spicy without burning your tastebuds off. Olives are, of course, stone fruit, so must count towards your five a day.

Mezze are divided into cold and hot and the absolutely best thing on the menu is baba ganoush. But not if you have romance in mind — smoky aubergine, tahini and lots and lots of garlic may be a marriage made in heaven but only if both of you are eating it. Otherwise, expect to be celibate for about a week. Israeli couscous salad is a revelation. Forget that rather bland, slightly fluffy concoction, this is couscous for real men; lovely big beads of the stuff with crunchy vegetables and clean, fresh flavours. It doesn’t actually bite back, but you get the feeling it’s thinking about it. From the hot selection, there are lovely juicy prawns, only two per portion but so big and succulent that it can be forgiven. The same does not quite apply to the merguez sausages — divine though they undoubtedly are, two little ones for £5 seems a tad stingy.

The aforementioned kefta is much better value — two generous meatballs in a fresh-tasting tomato sauce that complements, rather than overwhelms, the flavour of the lamb, which in turn has a hint of mint. If you have any room left, order a meringue. They are the size and shape of a small bloomer — the loaf, not the old-fashioned knickers — and will keep your blood-sugar levels at a peak for the best part of a month.

The Drink
Del'Aziz offers an interesting wine list, with suggestions from Lebanon and Morocco — very exotic, but a risk at £22 a bottle for one of the former. A shame that it is not offered by the glass. A safer option is the Good Hope Stellenbosch chardonnay, a fruity mouthful at £21.50. The list is divided by country, which makes selection easier, and does include a reasonable sauvignon for £16. It has all the green grass and nettle one would expect from the grape, with less of the acidic flavours that one sometimes encounters.

Among the rose selection is a pinot grigio del Bastardo. Yes, you might order it purely for the name but it proves a good choice, however puerile the motive. More amber than pink, it has a deeply fuchsia berry nose and long finish. There’s more from Morocco on the red list, and an excellent prosecco hiding amid the bubbles, a bargain at £17. The usual — and some less so — cocktails are also available, as well as an array of coffees and teas, and some non-alcoholic smoothies.

The Last Word
Turn left instead of right at the south side of Blackfriars Bridge and you encounter a whole new London — bright, vibrant and full of fun and, even better, increasingly full of venues like Del'Aziz.

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