The trend for modern Indian cuisine is in abundance here in the capital. But for those moments when only a lamb bhuna and a pint of Kingfisher will do, pop on down to Kensington’s Delhi Brasserie for a more traditional Indian dining experience.

The Venue
Along the busy Cromwell Road, the Delhi Brasserie sits nestled amongst a row of similar tourist-tempting eating emporiums. Fighting through a jungle of lush green foliage you enter through a bottle-green shop front and into a smart yet compact restaurant. The dining area is spread over two floors with a small service bar in between. Downstairs is the more airy of the two with a double height ceiling and popular window tables which overlook the bustle of Kensington. Upstairs feels more like an overflow area, a mezzanine floor which is more secluded but still allows you to be part of the main fray by overlooking the lower dining room. The slightly dated, pale green decor will never win any style awards, but it’s clean and fresh and wholly unobtrusive. The trappings are again more traditional rather than super-cool. Smart white tablecloths uniformly dress each table whilst a small vase of fresh carnations decorate it.

The Atmosphere
Thanks to the generous choice of three and four star hotels in the area, SW7 is a magnet for overseas tourists of which whom make up the mainstay of the Delhi Brasserie’s clientele. However, in an area where lack of resident trade means less value for service, it is nice to see that the standards here are still extremely high. The staff are friendly and attentive without any of the snootiness which is often found in venues in the area. Families are welcome and children are genuinely encouraged.

The Food
The menu is extensive yet has no real culinary surprises and all the usual Indian favourites, masalas, biryanis, kormas and vindaloos, are catered for. No Indian meal is complete with a couple of warm, crisp poppadoms (50p each) to start off with, accompanied by the all-essential onion salad, strange green minty yoghurt, tangy lime pickle and a sticky sweet mango chutney (50p per person). Starters are a little more fancy, the vegetarian mix starter (£5.50) arrives as a platter of onion bhaji, a light, sweet oniony batter, fried samosa which is filled with creamy vegetables with a hint of curry spice and a panir tareko, a fried oblong of home-made cheese, which is the least impressive of the trio. The prawn puri (£4.95) on the other hand is very nice indeed. A large pancake-sized puri is filled with a rich, spicy tomato sauce and plump pink prawns. It’s a delicious but filling start to the meal.

The main courses again go down the more traditional route. Try the exceptional chicken korai (£7.95). This medium-spiced dish simply bubbles with flavour and is ideal for those who like a good curry but prefer to not have their ears blown off by excess chilli. Slivers of chicken breast, fresh tomatoes, methi leaves and green pepper are served in a heavy iron souk and topped with finely sliced spring onions. The lamb paka (£7.95) is a much milder dish with only the vaguest hint of heat but still has plenty of flavour and packed with tender young lamb in a pale creamy sauce thick with ground almonds. The pilau rice (£2.95) has obviously been perfected over the years and is light and perfectly fluffy although overpriced for such a small portion. The side dishes are a must-order and include a deliciously puffy naan bread (£2.75), steaming hot with shreds of pungent garlic and a nice crisp, buttery base. The saag (£3.95) is the chef’s new recipe, its soft, creamy butteriness is the perfect accompaniment to a spicy curry, but again could have been slightly more generous for the £3.95 price tag.

The dessert menu is less than inspiring, unless of course you enjoy the coconut ice cream served in a shell style of dessert. But if you do need a little sweetener after the meal you can never go wrong with a traditional kulfi. This ultra-creamy, full fat Indian ice cream has a flavour all of its own. The mango flavour is fresh, creamy and cools an over-heated tongue a treat.

The Drink
The drinks menu is more than generous and offers popular tipples from every decade. From the Noughties, a very nice Oyster Bay sauvignon is a steal at £17.95 a bottle. For a more Eighties beverage try the German Piesporter at £16.95 or a Mateus Rose for £17.95 a bottle, both a random blast from the past. The house wine (of which bottles grace the tables on arrival) is a basic French table wine sold at £12.50 a bottle. A choice of two beers is available, a small bottle of Cobra for £2.95 or Kingfisher on draft. If you’ve opted for a tongue-roasting phall, try a lassi (salt or sweet £4) to cool your fire.

The Last Word
The Delhi Brasserie is definitely one for the little black book. List it under D for decent curry house, as it’s very handy to have a place which serves very good, unpretentious curry in a traditional (i.e. slightly dated) setting.

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