22 Harcourt Street,
Marylebone,
London,
W1H 4HH
0872 148 3293
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.
The ViewLondon Review
An intimate, high quality sushi venue, tucked away in the residential back streets of Edgware. Just don’t tell everyone – it’s hard enough to get a seat already!
The Venue
If it weren’t for the huddle of happy diners outside, you could easily miss this restaurant between a chartered accountants and a Marylebone town house, an easy five minutes walk from the Edgware Road. Looking through the bay window, you might expect to see a front living room, but instead a contented sushi chef cuts fish into improbably thin slices and whizzes up the garnish for his next sashimi. The venue size suits smaller groups or couples; the whole restaurant only sits about 25, so booking is essential. Upstairs is a narrow, traditional sushi bar, with room for six customers, mostly Japanese businessmen, laughing with the chefs and simultaneously revelling in their sushi.
A tight spiral staircase brings you down to a tiny wine bar. On the right is a hushed bunker style room with three tables for couples, and to the left a larger plain dining room with tables for groups. Perhaps not ideal for someone who suffers from claustrophobia, the back room has no windows, although the front room looks out over the street. Direct but warm lighting reflects the muted white walls and stone floor. The chocolate brown leather benches soften the otherwise minimalist interior, complementing the wooden table and chairs and contemporary white crockery.
The Atmosphere
The staff are efficient but helpful, and offers a detailed explanation of the menu. They encourage diners to order tapas-style – raw fish is surprisingly filling and you may find that your eyes are bigger than your stomach.
The restaurant is popular and over subscribed, yet the atmosphere remains inviting and diners are encouraged to take their time over dinner. Couples huddle together, chuckling and clicking chopsticks as they fight over the last sashimi, with the majority of clientele made up of well-heeled thirty year olds and up.
The Food
The menu is divided into hot and cold tapas, plus teriyaki, noodles, sushi rolls and sashimi options. Dishes are brought out one at a time, allowing you to savour the delicate flavours and textures. The tapas offers a mix of traditional Japanese classics like seasonal vegetable tempura that melt in the mouth (£4.75), Nobu-inspired dishes such as their famous avocado and crab tar-tar tacos (£3.95) and some innovative fusions along the way. The lunch menu also offers good value, with fifteen pieces of assorted sushi roll for £12.50.
The tataki tuna (£8.50) is seared to perfection. The sweet mustard miso sauce keeps it fresh, whilst the crisped garlic and dried shards of chilli garnish leave a pleasant after taste. With only five slices, make sure you don’t have to share it. The Dinings signature dish of seared Wagyu Beef sushi (£8.90) is lightly seared and does not disappoint. A lick of fresh wasabi hidden under the beef adds a surprise, and the spiciness is cooled by tiny cubes of ponzu jelly balanced on a truffle topping. The fusion of Japanese and classic western cuisine, such as fresh water eel and foie gras sushi roll (£13.50), are combinations that Dinings excel in.
The char-grilled Iberian pork with Korean spicy miso (£7.95) is also outstanding; the aromatic miso has a depth of spiciness which complements the smoky meat. For sushi rolls, you can’t beat the toro-taku roll (£8.90). The minced fatty toro tuna followed by the sweet crunch of chopped pickles is both simple and satisfying. The menu is an extensive minefield of deliciousness, but you can still try to better it and ask the chef for any new roll combination.
Although Dinings does savoury best, their desserts are classic enough to satiate a sweet craving: the creme caramel (£4.35) is light and wobbles on the edge of collapse, whilst the chocolate fondant (£4.75) is so dark it could just push you over the edge of indulgence.
The Drink
It can be hard to find wines that match such delicate and varied dishes, however at Dinings there is a good selection of wines from the old and new world, priced from £16.50 to £65. Japanese beer and sake are the clear winners when it comes to accompanying sushi – Dinings serves sake from £16 to £75 per bottle, including Masumi Sanka sake or Uragasumi, which can be served gently warmed. Sake is also available by the glass (£4 - £6).
The Last Word
Dinings serves sushi how it’s meant to be, with fresh, quality ingredients elegantly served in a minimalist environment. This tiny venue may be a small fish in a big pond – but it is certainly making waves.
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