Casually posh and effortlessly delicious, a meal at Dolada is sure to impress.

The Venue
With an address in one of the capital’s most upmarket neighbourhoods, you expect Dolada to be a nice-looking venue and it doesn’t disappoint. Although it’s a basement restaurant, located down an iron staircase draped with greenery, effort has gone into making the room feel as bright as possible, with warm lighting and rich colours in browns, reds and creams. Aside from some interestingly curved chairs, there’s nothing about Dolada that’s outlandish or very eye-catching – it’s all just understated luxury. Tables are located in rows down either side and through the middle of the long venue, and a bar near the entrance provides a place for an aperitif or two.

The Atmosphere
Staff are warm and friendly, professional when describing the menu but not too standoffish to crack a few jokes. Other clients are an equal match of couples who are clearly regulars and those who’ve wandered in after work. The warm decor makes the venue feel accommodating, unlike many others in the same price range where anything above a whisper is cause for a raised eyebrow.

The Food
The food at Dolada is anything but cheap, but the prices aren’t unusual for the neighbourhood. Providing you choose a few of the lower-priced options – and don’t go too overboard on the wine – you’ll find yourself with a typical Central London bill at the end of the evening. Starters range from just under £10 to about £20, whilst most mains hover at about the £25 range.

Before the starters arrive an amuse bouche of prawn cocktail is presented, succulent and sweet in a shot glass with tendrils of green leaves and a dab of Marie Rose sauce. From the choice of starters, frico by the glass is a savoury, light mousse made of potato and cheese – the indulgent taste, delicate texture and interesting presentation in a low glass make it a firm favourite with ladies who lunch. The antipasto platter is large enough to be eaten between two, with about half a dozen choices of ham and salami spread on a wooden board. In the middle is a selection of sliced organic pickled veg, with everything from crunchy carrots to sharp, tart pickled gherkins, and scattered on top are a few crisp, thin, homemade breadsticks.

Dolada’s lamb main has a lot going for it, with soft, tender lamb served two ways – on the bone and in thin slices. The beetroot and goat’s cheese ravioli on the side are two huge, flat raviolis – one dyed pink from the beetroot – filled with a tangy, lemony goat’s cheese. Also on the side is a little mini tower of cheesy sliced potatoes, although this seems more of an afterthought on the plate. A much simpler dish is the sea bass served on a bed of artichokes with a few small new potatoes. The fish is a large portion and cooked well, lush and meaty with the skin left artfully on. A handful of bright red cherry tomatoes add a splash of colour to the dish.

A pre-dessert of a shot glass filled with watermelon mousse and white chocolate is a refreshing palate cleanser for the puddings, which include a perfectly prepared panna cotta. Speckled with vanilla, the panna cotta is thick, rich and creamy and is just the right side of wobbly. Diced pineapple served on the side cuts through the milky flavours with its sharp, intensely sweet taste. The red berry parfait is also a good choice, as it’s a generous portion and incredibly smooth, with a crumbly biscuit-like base.

Despite all the amazing flavours beforehand, the highlight of the meal is the petit fours you receive after your dessert. A silver cake tray of biscuits, pastries and chocolate covered fruit is nice, but the accompanying crystallised fruit will have even the most jaded restaurant-goer’s eyes widening in surprise. Speared on long wooden sticks and inserted in a red plastic tray, the fruits at the top have been caramelised in sugar, leaving them glossy and sparkling. With choices including blueberries, figs, dates, red and green grapes and cape gooseberries, they’re almost like lollies for grown-ups and prove that Dolada isn’t afraid to have fun with their food.

The Drink
With the lowest price of wine at £25 per bottle, if you’re not an oenophile you might be better off sticking to a glass. Luckily there are a few options starting at £6.50, including a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a light, berry-flavoured red wine. For £7.50 a glass the San Vincenzo is full bodied and intensely fruity, but still well balanced. The dessert wines (from £5.50 a glass and £25 a bottle) are divine and well worth sipping whilst exploring the sugar-covered petit fours.

Champagnes are available from £65 to £500 per bottle, but if you really want to splash out the Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido costs £850, whilst a magnum of Barolo can run up to £920.

The Last Word
Although the prices mean that for most Dolada is best saved for special occasions, it’s worth it if you need to impress friends or a date. Just make sure you stay for dessert.

View®  Card offers venue information venue map view london review user reviews (17) image gallery (1)