The ViewLondon Review
A great local place that lives up to its reputation as one of the best Neapolitan restaurants in the capital.The VenueA few minutes walk from Clapham Junction station, Donna Margherita is unassuming from the outside and seems like just another neighbourhood restaurant. But that’s exactly what it is, and in fact it’s all the better for it. Since its inception in 2003, word of mouth has done the restaurant well and it’s become as well known for its friendly, cheery atmosphere as it is for its pizza.
Inside, the restaurant has gone for a hearty feel with traditional-style decor – or what Londoners would think a traditional Italian restaurant should look like, anyway. Wood tables and chairs are packed in throughout the two dining areas: in the front, black and white photos are scattered across a yellow wall, whilst towards the rear a colourful, flowery mural brightens things up. There’s a little balcony area that’s been decorated to resemble a Neapolitan balcony, complete with a clothesline hanging with football shirts. There’s also a covered outdoor area, which, even if it’s raining, people are more than happy to take advantage of when the tables inside are all filled.
The AtmosphereThe cheerful, friendly service is as plentiful as the portions, and both the waiting staff and the chefs know their stuff – as they should, being that two thirds of the team are from Naples. The clientele (which includes some Italians – always a good sign) are a mixed bunch, everything from families to young couples to large groups meeting up. Although it might be a bit too raucous for a romantic dinner for two, it would be a great place to go with a few of your mates. This is the kind of place that, even if you don’t live around the corner, you’ll kind of wish you did – if only to proudly show off Donna Margherita to your friends when they come to visit.
The FoodSouthern Italian food is somewhat of a rarity in London, as cuisine from the Northern region tends to dominate. If spag bol is your idea of the ultimate in Italian cooking, you’re in for a bit of a shock as it doesn’t appear on the menu here in any way, shape or form. There is, however, an abundance of other pasta dishes, meat and fish dishes, plus the ubiquitous pizza in several different varieties. Most pizzas and pastas come in at under £10, whilst the meat and fish dishes are slightly more, but everything seems very well priced and the portions serve up more than enough.
Forgo the typical bruschetta and/or calamari starters and go for a few Neapolitan specialities. Aubergine parmigiana is thick and dense, with well-cooked aubergine and lashings of thick tomato sauce topped with melted mozzarella. Garlic bread is served, interestingly, as slices of thin crust pizza, with crisp dough and sprinkles of garlic and rosemary. There’s also an extremely filling trio that includes moist, savoury meatballs, creamy borlotti beans and lentils mixed with friarelli, which is a spinach-like vegetable, also known as broccoli rabe, that thrives in Naples thanks to its ashy soil (courtesy of Mount Vesuvius). The antipasti plate is perfectly satisfactory, if a bit heavy on the oil, with thin slices of aubergine and courgette, a couple of piquant artichoke hearts and salty, chewy pieces of pancetta.
From the pasta selection, the scialatielli alla pescatora is a house favourite. The pasta is homemade and al dente, with a bit of a bite that makes the long, thick noodles taste much better than anything you could pull off the shelf at your local supermarket. Tangled through the pasta are some plump cherry tomatoes and slivers of tender squid, whilst arranged around the plate are a dozen or so juicy mussels in their shells. Two pink crayfish sit on the edge, happy to be included in such a mouth-watering dish.
Pizza is Naples’ claim to fame and you’ll find the two most famous versions (marinara and margherita) on the menu amongst many other creations. The marinara is all about the tomato, from the slightly sweet sauce coating its base to the juicy pieces of it sprinkled on top. The margherita pizza is named after Queen Margherita, who chose the patriotic colour combination of tomato, basil and mozzarella. This restaurant’s version is a good balance of gooey cheese with a kick from the basil and tomato sauce. The pizza dough is thin but substantial, with a crust that manages to be both chewy and crisp. The proper way to eat it is to fold the slices in thirds – no knife and fork necessary. Tiramasu, to finish, is faultless – if you have room. Layers of fluffy sponge and delectable cream with more than a hint of heady booze, it rounds everything off wonderfully.
The DrinkThe wine list is small but reasonably priced, with bottles of house at about £12 and lots of choices for under £20 and £30, plus several Proseccos and Champagnes. The Vigne Alte Rosso, Cefalicchio, 2003 is a crisp red with a hint of smokiness, ideal for both meat and seafood courses. There’s also a few choices of beer and an entire page dedicated to grappa, the incredibly potent Italian liquor, if you fancy a digestif.
The Last WordIf you’re an Italian looking for a taste of home or a Brit looking for some authentic Italian cuisine, this is the place for you. Low on frills but high on quality, Donna Margherita’s packed dining room is a testament to its reputation.