In an established hotel in a quiet corner of St James’s, The Dining Room at Dukes doesn’t shout cool but does provide a discreet setting for an intimate meal.

The Venue
Established in the early part of the last century, the Dukes Hotel is set back in a hidden cul-de-sac leading from the busy St James’s Street. It has a sedate, classic feel and the pale green colour scheme of the refurbished hotel is continued downstairs into the restaurant. The hotel is part of the group that owns the much more bold and brassy One Aldwych and, if you’re in the area, the Carlisle Bay in Antigua.

The Atmosphere
In keeping with the old school feel of the hotel, the restaurant has paintings dotted on the walls with flowers perched on white tablecloths. The chairs are salmon pink upholstered and otherwise it’s all very beige and magnolia. There are spotlights in the ceiling and the atmosphere is suitably subdued. There’s no background music and although not overly busy, it’s not deserted.

The Food
Dukes relies on old British favourites. For starters there is a tender quail breast, and beetroot, olive oil and salt is always a great combination, although it’s a little too heavy on the oil. The scallops are tender too and the cauliflower purée smooth and creamy, but whether it’s the best accompaniment for the very subtle flavour of the seafood is debateable. Other starters include a charlotte of Scottish salmon, chicken liver parfait and goat’s cheese salad.

Main courses average out at around £16 - £17 and include: haddock, bubble and squeak and a poached egg; Galloway rib-eye steak and chips; and grilled spatchcock baby chicken. The skate wing comes with a brown butter sauce and capers, but tastes a little too salty. The wild duck breast is nice and pink and the blackberry cassis sauce is a great touch. Keeping things simple is always advisable and the steamed vegetables and the stick chips (much better than the trendy fat ones) are both recommended side orders.

For dessert, the dark chocolate pot is excellent and potent, based on an egg and brandy mix, and the bread and butter pudding is well-executed — light, buttery, soft and crisp — with plenty of currants. The fresh mint tea ends the mean off nicely.

The Drink
Wines range from £17.50 upwards and the yellowy Santo Stefano Pinot Grigio (Veneto) is crisp and served at the right temperature but, for the money, the Chablis has more character. The suggested Riojawas, however, is simply too powerful for some of the dishes, so order carefully.

The Last Word
While not exactly a place for finicky young foodies, The Dining Room at Dukes happily serving its clientele with classic British dishes in a reserved atmosphere.

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