If you’re seeking a palatable alternative to a doner kebab, Efes 1 is certainly worth seeking out for well presented, tasty Turkish cuisine.

The Venue
A relatively short trot from Oxford Circus tube station, the restaurant is located on one of the many backstreets in the centre of London. With its somewhat classical, retro stylistics a visit to Efes 1 feels a tad nostalgic even if you’ve never been there before. It’s quintessential Turkish fare with its worn, bedraggled carpets, garish green colour scheme and gleaming glass lanterns dangling from every conceivable orifice. Not to mention the vast array of celebrity photographs embossed like stern onlookers from yesteryear in crude picture frames on the walls. So don’t be alarmed if you see a po-faced Trevor McDonald casting a cautionary glance towards your dinner.

On the plus side, it’s chuffing huge. Even on busy evenings, you can be sure to find a table in oodles of space safe in the knowledge that you can have a pleasantly audible chat with your table-mate. The glistening bar stationed at front of house seems to serve only a visual purpose and is seldom weighed down with the presence of customers reticent to face the wrath of the Titchfield draft.

The Atmosphere
Efes 1 attracts a distinctly adult crowd and one would suggest that it’s not the ideal place to bring the children. They’d struggle with the menu, for starters. Moreover, the staff seem largely incapable of dismissing their rather subdued, forlorn facial expressions. They’re efficient, attentive and considerate enough but it’s as if some unrepentant prankster has wheeled in a set of waxworks from Madame Tussauds. They really are the antithesis of that rowdy mob at TGI Fridays. It’s a shame they can’t meet somewhere in the middle. That said, the atmosphere simmers gently amid some traditional tunes and the vast open spaces between tables. It’s excellent for large parties or those keen to have a discreet business lunch or dinner.

The Food
It’s hard to know where to start with the gargantuan behemoth that is the Efes 1 menu. There’s a plethora of hors d’oeuvres to choose from and nearly everything is priced at about £5. Fresh carrots with yoghurt, cream cheese salad and avocado with vinaigrette are some of the simpler starters on offer. And if you’re feeling brave you could always plump for deep fried lambs’ liver or artichoke hearts served with ‘special ingredients’. To be frank, the mains are so consuming that a light starter is advisable (if any). With about 20 varieties of kebab on the menu, those who aren’t aux fait with Turkish food are likely to pin the tail on the donkey and pick a dish at random. You may as well – they all sound extremely similar.

Anything cooked on charcoal is worth a punt. It adds extra char grilled zing to the proceedings. Whether it’s minced lamb mixed with herbs and Turkish parsley, wrapped in a layer of lamb’s fat, breast of chicken, marinated, rolled and skewed with peppers and mushrooms or minced lamb, specially prepared with a variety of spices it’s actually rather delicious. Each assortment of meat is accompanied with a small basket of thinly sliced bread that lies somewhere between pita and garlic naan and a small pot of spicy sauce that wouldn’t be embarrassed if it was used in a vindaloo. The meaty combinations on offer are about £10 which is fully justifiable considering the generous portions and depth of flavour. Steaks are available but the heart of Efes 1 lies in its kebabs – perhaps literally in some cases.

The Drink
French, Greek, Italian and Turkish wines are on offer and there are sherries and liquers for those who fancy something a little sweeter to wash down the tangy aftertaste that lingers long after mains have been devoured. And Turkish coffee is available at a very reasonable £1.50.

The Last Word
If you can see past the tawdry tapestry and solemn staff, an evening at Efes 1 makes for a pleasurable experience. The food is delectable and reasonably priced and it’s gloriously spacious. Just beware the spicy sauce.

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