El Faro brings imaginative, top end Spanish food to an otherwise rather uninviting stretch of the Thames.

The Venue
El Faro (Spanish for Lighthouse) is situated on Crossharbour dock, not far from Canary Wharf. Whilst their website claims El Faro that looks out over the beautiful scenery of the Crossharbour dock, this may be pushing it. In reality, the scenery is one of dilapidated boats, the imposing Millwall docks and the Thames at its greyest. There is a large outside area that must be pleasant enough on a sunny day but it would probably be wise to forget your glasses and bring a lot if imagination in order to regard this industrial part of London as beautiful. However, once inside the space is light, airy and welcoming, large windows look out to the aforementioned Crossharbour and in the evening the lack of surrounding buildings makes El Faro feel like a real getaway. The decor is neutral and pleasant, with a pretty tiled floor, dark brown leather chairs and nice chunky tables which are well spread out to give some privacy.

The Atmosphere
Due to the close proximity to Canary Wharf the clientele are mainly suited city workers, interspersed with a few residents who can't believe their luck a restaurant of this standard has sprung up on their doorstep. The out of town location does have an advantage; once the sun goes down and the view disappears, the candles inside and stillness outside mean that El Faro has a really nice relaxed vibe and is somewhere you will want to spend the whole evening. The staff are extremely knowledgeable about the food and wine, and are more than happy to recommend both. Many of the dishes are from specific parts of Spain, and have interesting stories to accompany them; the staff will happily point out the regions on the map and explain what food or wines originate from where.

The Food
Head chef Javier Capella is a graduate of the Hoffmann Culinary School of Barcelona. Before joining El Faro he travelled around Europe and the dishes he has designed are a reflection of this; alongside traditional Spanish tapas dishes, there are exciting introductions such as fresh sea urchins sauteed with eggs and spring onions. Whilst the word fusion is often overused in the London restaurant scene El Faro achieves it perfectly, taking Spanish influences and bringing them up to date to create an impressive selection of dishes. The extensive menu begins with a large selection of starters; there is a very good array of tapas dishes including traditional offerings such as calamari, chorizo and Spanish omelette. Luckily the staff are more than willing to offer their recommendations.

The calamari (£4.95) is fresh and perfectly cooked, with a moreish salty crispy batter and served with an intense romesco sauce. The cheese selection (£7.50) is a cheese lover’s dream; a selection of high quality Spanish cheeses arranged in level of strength and served with sweet quince and crispy rustic bread. Padron peppers from Galicia (£4.50) complement the cheese and meat well. The real star of the starters is the Cinco Jotas Jabugo ham (£15.95). The waiter explains that this ham, from the pure-bred black Iberian pig, comes from only one place in the world, the Andalusian village of Jabugo. Apparently these pigs have a passion for acorns which results in a delicious deep red, marbled, full flavoured, nutty ham; this coupled with ciabatta and tomatoes results in a deliciously simple yet utterly flavoursome dish.

Whilst you could quite easily stick just to tapas make sure you leave enough for mains as they are just as good; there is a wide selection of Spanish meat and fish fresh daily from nearby Billingsgate market. The tuna (£16.50) is vibrantly red, wonderfully fresh and served in a large chunky loin. The fresh meatiness of the tuna is complemented absolutely beautifully with creamy mushrooms and dry pesto. Their specialty of roasted Iberian suckling pig and caramelised apple (£17.50) comes in a huge portion. The meat is wonderfully tender and covered in a crispy skin. Served with sweet, sticky caramelized apples this dish is one for serious meat lovers only as there is large amount of meat, but sadly the tenderness of the meat is the main attraction as it is slightly lacking in flavour. The sides of green beans (£3.95) are crisp and fresh and the patatas bravas (£3.45) are absolutely delicious in a large portion covered with both a tangy tomato and a creamy garlic sauce.

If you have still got room the desserts are definitely worth the guilt and can be justified by the inevitable trek home you will have to make. To make the decision easier, and avoid food envy, the selection of desserts (£7.50) is a good option and is big enough for two. The selection includes their Santiago cake, which is sweet, moist and light and served with delicious caramel-coated almonds; a creamy moreish rice pudding served with a chewy orange and almond biscuit and a satisfyingly custardy creme caramel.

The Drink
El Faro clearly know (and love) their wine; the wine list has an informative introduction and a map illustrating the wine regions. The wine list is so extensive you could use it as a blaggers guide to Spanish wine, with each wine and region having a good, full explanation. There is something here to suit every budget and taste with house white starting at £17 and premium wines rising past the £200 mark. The Rioja Reserva 2004 (£26.50) is deliciously oaky, with good notes of vanilla and a strong fruity after taste which complement both the meats and cheese perfectly.

The Last Word
This is Spanish food at its best, you will be hard pushed to find anywhere in London which serves such imaginative delicious food, so be prepared to make the trek to this slightly unglamorous part of town.

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