Nestled behind the five star hotels that look onto Hyde Park, this traditional Spanish bolt hole attracts a thriving after work crowd.

The Venue
The pirate theme is striking: contrasting black, white and red throughout, with splashes of colour in the framed Miro and Picasso prints. Despite the dark decor, street-style lanterns on the walls illuminate the black wooden beams and tables well.

The Atmosphere
The first floor is the place to be for an authentic experience. The bar is the main feature, the bottles of spirits and liqueurs all suspended above head height. The spiral staircase descends to the lower dining room, equally packed full of tables. The staff are mainly Spanish and happy to recommend dishes, if you're not one of the regulars popping in for a quick bite and a beer at the bar on your way home (even at 11pm!). It's definitely worth spending a full evening here though, sustained with a steady flow of tapas.

The Food
The tapas is brought in rounds, with cold dishes first, followed by fish, then meat and veg - perhaps trying to make the meal format more English. If you want to forego this structure to nibble between them all at once, the waiter might need prompting. While you compile your list from the menu, tuck into a basket of chewy crusted sourdough bread (£1.50), a plate of mixed marinated olives and a dish of aioli, the mayonnaise overly creamy but with a good garlic hit.

Pimientos de Padron (£4.95) from the specials menu are spot on, flash fried to give colour and generously coated with crunches of salt - you're unlikely to get a spicily hot one so don't be too daunted by the pepper roulette. For something a little more special than standard jamon serrano, try jamon Iberico pata negra, gran reserva (£17.50) - wafer thin shavings of cured ham, from the rare acorn-fed black foot pig. The plate is big enough to satisfy about four to six people as the slices have such an intense, rich flavour, almost comparable to mature cheese. Ensalada mixta deserves a mention for a fantastic side salad.

Salpicon de marisco (£6.75) is served in a large lettuce leaf, making an edible bowl to hold the medley of chopped prawns, squid, mussels and octopus in a sharp vinaigrette dressing. Pimientos piquillo relleno de marisco (£7.95) are quite mild, tasting more of potato than fish in the smooth mixture stuffing the peppers. The warm tomato sauce they sit in is quite insipid and unnecessary. The standout dish is Langostinos del chef (£8.50) - four meaty king prawns infused in garlic, tomatoes and white wine, and butterflied so that they can be eased out of the shell with a fork, rendering the messy fingerbowls a frivolity.

Chorizo al vino (£4.25) uses the chewier cured variety rather than fresh, which seems less suited to this method of cooking. Any hint of red wine is lost in the thick tomato broth, and the dish overwhelmed with an excess of sausage slices. Vuleta de carne (£5.30) sits in a gravy more 'roast-dinner' than the fresh sounding 'garlic, red peppers, white wine and parsley' promised on the menu would suggest. The thin medallions of steak are cooked medium to well, but still have a good texture. Patatas a la pobre (£3.30) borrow the French influence of Dauphinoise, without the cream - a dense mound of soft layered potatoes, crisp on top and again similar to a roast accompaniment.

Dessert (£3.95) of platano frito is delicious – a caramelised halved banana, drizzled with honey and served alongside an indulgent, densely creamy, vanilla flecked ice cream. Crepe de chocolate is slightly disappointing as the pancake is a stale and chewy parcel holding a liquid chocolate-flavoured filling.

The Drink
Sangria is served by the glass or in a jug, ice-cold and the perfect balance of sweet sparkle, red wine and fruit pieces. The wine list is solely Spanish and justified with a good reflection of all that the different regions have to offer, including selections of sherry, port and cava. For something simple the house white Torres Vina Sol, from the Penedes area, is a refreshing, clear tasting wine.

The Last Word
The food is the most unremarkable facet of El Pirata's ship but the juxtaposition of its vibrant yet relaxed style is what captures the crowds and keeps them coming back for more.

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