Step back in time with this old-fashioned French restaurant, complete with glamorous showbiz legacy.

The Venue
Charlotte Street is a hub of London restaurant-land - home to some of the most exciting and progressive eateries in the city. Nestling among these is Elenas L’Etoile, which first opened its doors in 1896. However, the clock seems to have stopped in the mid 1970s and while the world outside has been turning, Elena’s is frozen in time. This kind of faded glamour bears out its place as a London institution. Renowned Maitre D’, Elena Salvoni, also of legendary London restaurant L’Escargot, was a friend to the stars in her time and Elenas L’Etoile was once the hub of the Fitzrovia showbiz whirl.

The Atmosphere
The decor is straight from a bygone era. The authentic French style – white tablecloths, embossed wallpaper, red velveteen chairs – has a certain shabby charm. If it wasn’t for the framed celebrity photos on the walls, it could be any slightly run-down Parisian bistro. The black and white framed pictures of Elena’s celebrity chums – from such luminaries as Judi Dench and John Hurt to the less glamorous Eamonn Holmes and Mavis from Corrie – cover every inch of wall. However, it doesn’t look like a new photo has been put up for at least twenty years. The clientele similarly look like they’ve been coming here since before the last picture was hung - no one is under forty. It feels cut off from the outside world, a bit of safe haven. Depending on your perspective, this timeless quality is either devastatingly charming or hopelessly shabby and out of date.

The Food
The menu is predominantly typically French, with a few Italian staples thrown in for good measure. The cooking is pretty hit and miss. The starter of seared scallops with smoked bacon and celeriac puree is good, with a fantastic sauce bercy. The scallops are small and flat, but still tasty and delicately cooked. The large oversized blini that comes topped with smoked salmon and horseradish is a novel twist – more like a giant Yorkshire pudding than a traditional blini. But though it starts well, the centre is too doughy.

Roast fillet of sea bass is disappointing. While the accompanying ratatouille is vibrant and fresh, and the tangy olive tapenade offset the fish well, the sea bass is tough and over-cooked. Better is the confit of lamb. Cooked to perfection so it falls apart beautifully, it has a rustic and wholesome flavour. The spring onion mash is creamy (in classic French style, there is no skimping on the butter and cream!), but the carrots taste overdone.

Dessert is where French cooking really comes into its own and the tarte tatin does not disappoint. Elaborately presented, this classic French dessert is delicious: a light, bite-y pastry base with fat, juicy caramelised apples and a dollop of cool calvados creme fraiche. The assorted cheese platter at £6.25 is comically retro – served on a small square plate (the kind you get at town hall meetings) the cream puff and Hovis biscuits are another throwback to a bygone age. The one area the restaurant has kept up to date with other Charlotte Street restaurants is their pricing structure. With starters ranging from £7 to £15 and main courses mostly around the £20 mark, the prices are steep for what is mostly average, unexceptional cooking.

The Drink
There’s a comprehensive wine list, separating the French wines out by region. There is also a good range of Spanish, Italian and New World wines. The white Chardonnay de L’Ardeche (L’ Latour) at £18.50 has a sharp bite and freshness that goes well with the fish. They also have some good Argentinian red and white wines at £16.50. After-dinner port or liqueurs are brought round on an antiquated, silver drinks trolley and served from crystal decanters, which is a pleasingly authentic touch.

The Last Word
As an alternative to soulless, identikit eateries, and an opportunity to sample a slice of London restaurant history alongside some retro cooking, Elenas L’Etoile is worth a look. It is the kind of place you want to like, and with some changes it could be a very special and charming gem… which could even attract some modern celebrities for those photo walls.

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