Residents of the Royal Borough have been happily frequenting this place for years but, following a recent overhaul, Elistano has a new look and expanded menu which now includes a broader range of modern European, as well as traditional Italian, dishes.

The Venue
While Elistano’s new decor, with its neutral tables and chairs, muted beige walls, and framed black and white photos of food being prepped, has a rather generic air, large windows at the front of the restaurant and white arch-shaped interior wall give this relaxed Chelsea joint a breezy and fittingly Mediterranean feel. Enjoy al fresco dining outside in the warmer months.

The Atmosphere
Service is excellent, with discreet yet attentive waiting staff appearing right on cue when required. The clientele, made up of smart Chelsea couples and families, chat contentedly while a mix of easy listening and Italian music hums in the background. One welcome result of the refurb is that noise levels – a problem previously - have been minimised so that even when Elistano is busy intimacy is not compromised.

The Food
Water appears on your table immediately after you are seated – always a welcome touch. Starters, which average at about £10 each, are very simple but well executed dishes, made with good quality ingredients, such as calamari fritti (perfectly crispy with a fresh, creamy tartar sauce) and smoked Scottish salmon with capers and bread.

Mains range from around £10 to £18. Of the modern European options, which include rib eye steak, chicken or veal escalope and risotto, the calf’s liver with streaked smoky bacon and mashed potatoes is especially recommended. The liver is tender, the buttery mash and accompanying gravy lip smackingly rich – this is proper comfort food. If Italian takes your fancy, there is a fine selection of pizza and pasta from which to choose. Go for the spaghetti scoglio. The pasta, which comes in a light but spicy tomato and mixed seafood sauce, is just the right side of al dente and the clams and mussels are juicy with a good bite. All meat comes from Elistano’s local butcher Jago’s of Chelsea, so the quality is high.

For dessert (all just under £6), go for the classic chocolate fondant, light in texture and oozing warm chocolate, it comes with good quality vanilla ice cream. Panacotta, though far too set (perhaps due to an excess of gelatine), is joined on the plate by a scoop of lovely smooth mango sorbet, the sweetness of which is nicely offset by a tart raspberry coulis.

The Drink
For a suitably retro Italian aperitivo go for a glass of Cinzano or Martini. Elistano’s wine list focuses resolutely on Europe, with many wines available in half litre carafes, as well as by the bottle and glass. This being Chelsea, you might want to wash your meal down with a bottle of champagne - André Clouet Grand Cru is £50, Laurent Perrier NV Brut £66 or £88 for rosé - but for those after something more modest, the house white, Omaggio D’Angeli Grillo 2010, a fresh ripe Sicilian, goes down a treat at £23.

The Last Word
Elistano isn’t cheap compared to equivalent spots in less elegant environs and the menu is not adventurous. However, reliably good food and impeccable service make it an enduringly popular choice for hungry Chelsea locals.

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