Not for the fainthearted, Empress of Sichuan offers an authentic – and eye-wateringly spicy – experience.

The Venue
Formerly known as Keelung, Empress of Sichuan has kept much of the former restaurant’s decor, including some seemingly random celebrity portraits (both Elvis and Marilyn make framed appearances on the walls) and large, mural-style street scenes. The walls are a chocolate brown and the occasional red lantern brightens things up, whilst more secluded booths and tables are guarded by gauzy red curtains.

The Atmosphere
Like Keelung, Empress of Sichuan is owned by the same people as Goldfish, the Hi Sushi chain and Leongs Legends. Although much of the staff worked in Keelung previously, service seems to have improved since, and everyone seems friendly and more confident in explaining dishes or making recommendations. Despite being located in Chinatown, Empress of Sichuan is just enough off the beaten path to avoid much of the tourist crowd, and much of the clientele is made up of the local Chinese community.

The Food
Szechuan cuisine is known for its spiciness and particularly its use of chilli, chilli oil and the mouth-numbingly hot Szechuan peppercorns – innocent-looking kernels that numb your tongue such ferocity that increasing your spice tolerance is a breeze – you’ll only notice something’s amiss when your water tastes spicy. Like much authentic Chinese food, many more common cuts of meat take a backseat to more unusual offerings. Pig’s ear, duck’s tongue, tripe, kidney, intestines, fish heads, pig’s blood and even jellyfish make an appearance on Empress of Sichuan’s long menu.

If the long menu does leave you feeling overwhelmed, however, a mixed starter plate is a good choice. At £20 it comes with a choice of five starters served in a large ceramic bowl and would be more than enough for at least two to share, or even three. Adventurous eaters should ask to try the spicy pig’s ear slices (thin but meaty strips that wouldn’t be recognisable on sight if not for the lines of white – the cartilage – running through each piece), the duck’s tongue (small, slightly rubbery and reminiscent of chicken wings with a tiny bone running through the centre – apparently there’s a trick to de-boning them without using your hands) and Thousand Year Old eggs (which are obviously not a thousand years old but have been boiled and then fermented for a long time nonetheless, so that the yolk turns yellow-green and the white becomes clear with a greenish tinge). Crunchy vegetables, which turn out to be green beans, are as crisp and crunchy as advertised and thin strips of chicken soaked in chilli oil are a bit more run-of-the-mill but still not for the uninitiated, thanks to their tingly, fiery heat. On their own, starters are about £5 each.

Mains are large and best for sharing, such as the Farmer’s Fish (£21.50), a whole sea bass, complete with head, smothered in a heady mix of spices and black beans – the flesh is soft and infused with all the ingredients on top, and it’s perfectly cooked. King prawns with chilli and peanuts, also known as Kung Pao prawns (£13.50), are scattered with dried chillies, peanut halves and fat slices of spring onions. The prawns are plump and the sauce intense but not too overwhelming. Long green beans with minced pork (£8.50) is a fresh, simple side dish that doubles as a welcome break from spiciness, whilst a soup with beef slices (£10.50 for tripe, £12.50 for beef slices) is packed with fresh herbs and chunks of tender beef, with the sharp flavour of coriander and, of course, chilli.

There are only a handful of desserts on offer (most are £4) but if you’re craving something sweet, the tapioca puddings do the job. Four little sticky rice dumplings topped with a sliver or rhubarb, inside each is a red bean paste that looks like chocolate but isn’t as sugary. Four deep fried pumpkin cakes are thin and crisp and a pretty, vibrant orange colour.

The Drink
Empress of Sichuan’s wine list is about two pages and features a range of countries with an emphasis on France. Prices start from £12.50 a bottle and reach £38 for whites and £45 for reds, whilst glasses range from £3.50 to £4.50. The 2008 Viognier (£22) has a fresh, citrusy taste that stands up to the food’s heat. Other alcohol options include Champagne (£35 and £45 a bottle) and Tiger or Tsing Tao beer £3.50 and Chinese Sun Lik beer on draught. Juices and sodas are also on offer, along with cold, salted or hot soya bean milk.

The Last Word
If you’re ready to make the step up from the glutinous, neon orange sweet and sour chicken from your local takeaway, Empress of Sichuan is on hand to guide you to the next level – authentic Chinese dining.

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