Italian restaurants pop up in London like hydra’s heads - no sooner has one closed down than seven appear nearby. But many opine that there are few real gems to compare to the simple essence of the mother country. One with such a claim is Essenza. There are few places with more choice than Kensington Park Road and Notting Hill, but there are few to compare to the pure simplicity and laid back atmosphere of this Italian, which is part of a group with the nearby Osteria Basilica and Mediterraneo.

The Venue
Essenza is a five to ten minute walk from either Notting Hill Gate or Ladbroke Grove tube stations and is a perfect stop off for lunch if you have been visiting Portobello Market, particularly as they offer a two course lunch for £12. It mixes a contemporary design with wood panelling and candles, so it feels like an updated, authentic Italian.

The Atmosphere
There is a close-knit, family vibe to the place - indicative of that happy buzz of talking, eating and drinking. There is no West London attitude in here: people seem to come to relax at their local and it’s encouraging to see Italians with their familes. The staff are unobtrusively friendly and will help lead you through the specials and the best dishes of the day. They won’t smile sickeningly in your face or ask you how your meal is every two minutes, but they take everything on board and seem to remember their proud regulars around the room.

The Food
As you’d expect with a good Italian, you can really taste the difference in the ingredients whether an earthy lump of their rustic bread soaked in olive oil or the surprisingly light flesh of one of the matured sirloin steaks. A four course meal with wine comes to around £100. A huge plate of antipasti includes a melt in the mouth piece of salami and a quality, milky mozzarella which is almost like goat’s cheese. Caprese salad is accompanied by subtly light basil to ensure it doesn’t overpower.

Powering through the pasta course (mostly around £10 - £12) the arrabbiata is a little too al dente for most English sensibilities but would be perfect for Italian tastes, and the tomato and chilli has the ideal amount of tangy tomato and spice. The pesto linguine with pine nuts, roasted tomatoes and oregano has the grainer taste of true Italian pesto and is a sumptuously simple dish.

The main courses (all less than £20) produce a delicate beef sirloin with green beans and a side order of sauteed potatoes cooked to a perfectly soft texture to go with the meat. The blue riband dish on the fish orders is the sea bass fillets which are so juicy it tastes like the herbs and olive oil have just been freshly added on the harbour at Positano. With chocolate tiramisu and a changing Italian cheeseboard for dessert it is hard not to prolong the visit.

The Drink
Rivera Castel del Monte (just under £15) is a light, delicate Puglian wine that complements the sea bass and perfect for sipping at one of the outdoor tables Essenza puts outside in warm weather. With the bistecca and cheese it is a worth a change to try the Chianti Classico Doc Melini, which usefully comes in half a bottle, a well defined full bodied red with a soft hint of Tuscan fruits of the forest and from one of the best regions in Chianti. There is also a choice of grappa to finish off.

The Last Word
One of the most buzzing and pleasurable Italians in London, the kind of local restaurant everyone wishes they had around the corner.

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