Royal Festival Hall, Unit 9,
Festival Terrace,
Southbank,
London,
SE1 8XX
(020) 7261 0001
The ViewLondon Review
This little sushi place on South Bank is one of a chain that serves up very fresh fish for fans of the Japanese fare.
The Venue
Feng Sushi is found at the Royal Festival Hall on the ever-busy South Bank, where restaurant-upon-restaurant line the Thames. This fact makes Feng Sushi a little hard to distinguish from all the other neighbouring chain restaurants, and hardly adds to the venue's character or charm either. However, the outdoor pine wood benches jutting out from the glass pane restaurant front offer some pretty pleasant alfresco options in the warmer months.
Inside, a circular reception desk is decorated with special offer leaflets, and signs greets those who venture further in. This gives the restaurant the odd feel of an art gallery café, which is added to by the small size of the venue. For these reasons, Feng Sushi’s ‘feng shui’ is a little off kilter. A combination of short and tall pine benches with uncomfortable wooden stools are scattered about the room, matching the shade of its bamboo shoot walls. A rear wall is covered by a deep blue and pink floral mural, going some way towards creating a naturalistic vibe - something that's augmented by a flat screen television showing sea life footage on a loop, and a few tropical fish tanks set into the walls.
The Atmosphere
Your new fishy friends overlook you while you dine, and any sort of ambience is slightly lost in the somewhat clichéd décor and setting, even if the size of the venue adds a degree of intimacy. Standard wooden Japanese lanterns hang low from the ceiling and the lighting is soft in the evening. The restaurant fills out with after-work diners, families and couples who are welcomed by attentive staff, keen to offer up menu recommendations.
The Food
The food menu at Feng Sushi is bulging with appetising options and will impress most sushi lovers. Feng Sushi aims to serve fresh, sustainably-caught fish, and this is certainly evident when sampling their offerings, although it is reflected in the price tag too. Chilli edamame (£4.00) is a good starter to share, although the little bean pods are slightly overcooked and don’t pop so easily. Vegetable tempura (£7.25) is far better, the selection of seasonal vegetables cooked perfectly and covered in a heavenly light batter that soaks up an accompanying dipping sauce. Side salads are exciting too, and a crispy tofu salad (£6.50) comes highly recommended by staff. The tofu is light and crunchy and is served with tamago – strips of sweet Japanese omelette – and coated in a tasty miso dressing.
Loch Duart salmon nigiri (£3.75) is a fine example of the fresh fish served up at Feng Sushi, the salmon beautifully strewn over two bundles of moist rice, served with pickled ginger and a pea-shaped mound of wasabi on the side. More interesting varieties of fish are served sashimi style, and the Cleansea yellowtail upside down sashimi (£13) is an inventive bite that lifts the palate. The kingfish is served raw on a chunk of cucumber, topped with a blend of avocado, wakame seaweed, pickled jalapeno, coriander and yuzu kimchee dressing, making this a refreshing and citrusy menu choice that's light, but with plenty of kick. Maki rolls are a failsafe option at Feng Sushi, beautifully crafted and hugely filling. Superior Californian maki (£11) are filled with soft shell crab, crab claw meat, yuzu tobiko and avocado. The crunch of the soft shell and the bursting sensation from the fish roe that coat the outside add a complexity of flavour and texture to a simple maki roll.
After so many sushi options, the dessert menu is surprisingly limited, with three (albeit very interesting) ice cream options available for £3.25 each. Green tea ice cream is a subtle treat, chestnut ice cream is deliciously rich and black sesame ice cream is peppery on the palate. Chocolate mochi (£2.75) is the final dessert choice, and is a strange delicacy; it's a small, gelatinous pudding that is chewy, sticky, and oddly enjoyable.
The Drink
Given the length and breadth of the sushi menu, drink options are something of a let-down at Feng Sushi, with only a few wines, beers and sakes to choose from. Premium sake (£10.50) is a good option to wash down a big meal, and served warm, it cuts through the more intense flavours of the food. Plum wine (£14) is also available, as is a house red, white and rose (£15), but pairing wine with food is not really an option here. Beers come by the bottle - and by Japanese tastes - with Kirin and Asahi both available for £3.50.
The Last Word
The food at Feng Sushi is delicious, fresh and fun, but it does come with the kind of price tag you would expect for such carefully-sourced produce. And although there is nothing unique about the décor and setting of this branch, sushi fans won't be disappointed.
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