Pitch a fork anywhere in Knightsbridge and you’re likely to find a feted chef. The likes of Daniel Boulud and Pierre Koffman are set to be joined by Heston Blumenthal in 2011, but don’t disregard Jonas Karlsson’s work at the Fifth Floor Restaurant as the food is sublime and it shows there’s much more to Harvey Nicks than designer handbags and luxury goods.

The Venue
Right next to Knightsbridge tube station and with its own lift (meaning you can swerve the shopping all together), Fifth Floor Restaurant is a nice, easy destination to navigate to. Like other Harvey Nichols’ stores, it’s paired with a food hall, but it’s the Champagne Bar that’s at the heart of the action, with its glammed-up girlies sipping cocktails and exchanging hot gossip.

The restaurant sits next to the buzzy bar space and is more formal without being overly fussy. Guest pieces of eye-catching art from Kieran Crowder provide comforting visual stimulation – although these are soon to be replaced by mirrors – and it’s a dining room most notable for its white curvy panelled roof that looks like it could retract to allow diners a view of the night sky. Alas, it doesn't but you can content yourself by looking out the window at the grand neighbouring buildings.

The Atmosphere
Service is impeccable at Harvey Nicks, with one member of staff even taking the time to give a quick rundown on why he enjoys working there (the heavily subsidised travel pass helps). On a Friday night, surprisingly, the room only has around a dozen or so diners in attendance but the background music fills in any pregnant pauses in conversation with a quality mix of Stevie Wonder and Mr Scruff making you feel like someone’s docked your iPod and pressed shuffle.

The Food
The craft and aspirational endeavour of fine dining without the staid pretentiousness that tends to go with it pretty much sums up the Fifth Floor.

An amuse bouche of gloriously sweet autumnal pumpkin soup with crisp croutons gets things off to a flyer. And the good form continues through an excellent seared scallops and meltingly soft chicken wings dish, and a well-executed lobster bisque. Mains deliver the best dish of the sitting – a fillet of beef (£5 supplement) with a groan-inducing wild mushroom and foie gras sauce, and a crispy potato gallette. Alternatively, a thinly sliced venison dish is seasonal and satisfying.

When the cheese trolley shimmies into view (like the beef it costs an extra fiver), the selection ranges from a sharp and tangy cheddar to a charcoal-coated pungent soft cheese. Hardcore cheese fans will also be in their element as there’s some seriously strong options too.

The Drink
A meal here is intended to be an occasion so a glass of champagne – from the champagne trolley! – is a popular way to start. Anyone needing a stiff hit after watching too much Mad Men can also beckon the glistening, wait for it, spirits trolley. Yes, really.

The wine list is serious and they have their own brand as well as a list of voguish biodynamic tipples. For good value and plenty of oomph, the Aussie shiraz provides an intense lick of brambly fruit and a hint of smooth chocolate for under £30 a bottle.

The Last Word
Most definitely a destination in its own right, Fifth Floor Restaurant serves sublime cooking in a refreshingly unstuffy environment and, in doing so, strikes the perfect balance for those who like inventive cooking without the haughtiness.

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