Promising pizzas the true Italian way, Firezza doesn’t deliver.

The Venue
Essentially a takeaway hub on Lavender Hill, Firezza stands out as one of the more elegant establishments. Staff are reassuringly Italian, chefs look like they’re kneading dough expertly and the buzz and freshly baked smell is enough to make you hungry as soon as you step inside. There are ten seats in this branch, high stools giving a perfect eye-line into the wood-fired oven, so you can watch the pizza-making process while you wait.

The Atmosphere
Eating in isn’t really the done thing though; orders for delivery seem to be non-stop with Firezza branded bikes scooting around Clapham and Battersea every evening, an equal if not more popular rival to the ubiquitous Domino’s.

The Food
Ordering is effortless, by phone, online or via text – you’ll even get a message in reply when your pizza is en route so you can get ready to answer the door. Whilst you can opt for pizza served in a standard 12” round, the way to eat Firezza’s is in the traditional Neapolitan way, ‘al metro’ – one quarter per person, with a minimum order of a half metre, so best to order with at least one friend. The menu is stocked with classic Italian ingredients: combinations of pepperoni, pancetta, prosciutto or parma ham; gorgonzola, mozzarella and feta cheeses and a few vegetarian offerings.

The Bufalina D.O.C., £9.90 per quarter metre, is distinguished from a classic Margherita by imported buffalo mozzarella and cherry tomatoes. However, the exquisite flavours of such ingredients are absent. Instead the base is soggy with watery tomato sauce and the rest blending blandly into an almost pizza-soup. It’s virtually impossible to pick up in slices and needs a knife and fork to scoop up the slippery topping. The crust is floury and promising, with crisp edges giving a tease of good taste. Just a shame that this gets lost when holding the rest of the pizza. Cotto (£9.90) ham and mushrooms doesn’t fare much better. Again the rustic and abundant slices of prosciutto look appetising, but pale into insignificance at first bite. Mushrooms might as well be left off for all they contribute.

A Vegetali (£9.90) with courgette, wood-roasted aubergine, sweet peppers and red onion oozes a little more flavour, however this is countered by it also having sloppiest consistency of the lot. Perhaps a side order of focaccine would allow the best part, pizza bread, to be savoured to its full potential before being ruined with extra ingredients. You can customize your pizza with extras at £1.50 per ingredient, but why hinder what’s already there any further? It’s hard to believe that this is a true reflection of best quality Italian produce.

The Drink
Certain pizzas come recommended with Firezza’s house white or red, a nice touch and both inoffensive Italian choices. Beer is also available along with San Pellegrino mineral water and sparkling orange or lemonade (all £1.20).

The Last Word
Priced as pizza excellence, Firezza is the perfect example of stylish presentation, yet tasteful neglect. With rivals around the corner doing the same job infinitely better, there’s no need to settle for this poor comparison.

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