Malcolm John adds another impressive venue to his little empire of suburban eateries, and although this might not be as polished as some of the others, it’s still more than worth a visit.

The Venue
A gentle stroll up from Putney Station, Fish and Grill’s certainly looks the part, with a gorgeous looking terrace peering out atop the entrance, offering a great spot for some alfresco summer dining. If, though, you’re forced to succumb to our wonderfully reliable weather, the inside is certainly chic enough to avoid disappointment, with dark woods, blocks of white, a touch of foliage and plenty of light making things feel spacious and a little less formal than, say, Le Vacherin - one of John’s slightly more upmarket venues. Pictures of bovines and bivalves offer a hint as to what’s on the menu, just in case you missed the moniker.

The Atmosphere
In keeping with John’s other restaurants, Fish and Grill finds itself somewhere where neighbourhood dining is king, so expect a clientele that’s united only in their ability to pay prices that are ever so slightly elevated above the less salubrious venues closer to the station. It’s got a great, bustling feel to the place, especially at weekends, and even if you’re not keen on what can be a plethora of families, do consider that the children appear to be from good stock, so they're very well behaved. The staff can look rushed at times, resulting in a little bit of clumsiness and a little bit of forgetfulness, but on the whole they’re friendly and helpful, and do well to keep things ticking over without too much drama.

The Food
The name says it all really, but you can also tuck into a remarkably good Sunday roast too – something that’s a bit of a theme with Malcolm John’s venues. At two courses for £14.95 or three for £17.95 it’s pretty good value too, especially when you consider the quality of the ingredients: the beef is particularly good.

If you’re ordering a la carte, the scallops (£8) are a decent place to start, served with a hazelnut butter that’s just about light enough to complement the sweetness of the fish, and some al dente green beans that give it all a bit of texture. The mussels (£6.95) are really good though, bathing in a rich and balanced broth of salty bacon and sweet Dorset cider.

If you’re going for something from the grill then the meat is really well-sourced (think Southdown lamb cutlets, Label Rouge poultry and good quality Aberdeen Angus), and probably your best bet. The Cornish line-caught sea bass (£18) shows similar provenance, but there are some heavy hands in the kitchen – it’s slightly overdone, even if the big, fat and crispy chips and the home made tartar sauce go some way to making amends. A side of sprouting broccoli with almonds and thyme (£3.50), is fantastic.

A selection of British cheeses (£7.95) is disappointing, but only because everything comes straight from the fridge, so what are no-doubt very fine cheddars, blue cheeses, goat’s cheeses and bries have to be waited for. Thankfully, the flavoursome chocolate macaroons (£6.25) make that wait a little easier, boasting a balance between bite and chew that's spot on.

The Drinks
For most, it’s helpful to have a clear wine list, especially in the absence of a sommelier, and here, everything’s categorised for easy consumption, so if you fancy something ‘light and fruity’, you know where to look. It’s certainly not a short list but thankfully there are plenty of affordable and mid-priced options, with only a few stretching toward the extravagant. A di Tassarola Gavi (£28.50) is perfect for the majority of the fish dishes, whilst the well-priced Domaine de Moulines Merlot (£21.50) is a good (and affordable) bet for any of the big flavours coming from the grill.

The Last Word
There’s certainly a little bit of room for improvement but on the whole this is a great little venue, where the quality of the ingredients and the inclusive atmosphere more than make up for the odd mistake in the kitchen.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (12)