40 Dean Street,
Soho,
London,
W1D 4PX
(020) 7734 1853
The ViewLondon Review
Formerly Zilli Soho, the change into Forty Dean Street has been minimal. But that merely means it's carrying on with a winning formula.
The Venue
Inconspicuous from the outside and retaining nearly the same logo, you may not have noticed that Zilli Soho has been sold and that this new Italian has opened in its place. The décor has a degree of sophistication, with damask wallpaper alternating with a solid wine colourblock. The wooden furniture is contemporary and slick, immediately delivering the impression that this is not Italian trattoria but rather a sophisticated restaurant ideal for a date, an intimate dinner with friends or to take your parents out. Subdued lights and background music all add to what's an elegant venue.
The Atmosphere
The change in management is hardly noticeable: not only is the food still Italian, but the staff have remained the same. In fact, Forty Dean Street receives a great deal of its colour and warmth from two staff members who have been fixtures at the restaurant for decades. With their 'grazie!', 'complimenti!' and almost farcical demeanour, this becomes once again a stereotypical Italian restaurant. It's certainly not a bad thing - it's all very playful and you'll end up smiling at the congratulations you'll receive for things like finishing all the food on your plate. Many customers are regulars (and are treated accordingly), but there are greetings and handshakes for everyone.
The Food
The menu is traditional, with little to no compromise on authenticity. Within the appetisers (£2.50-£5.50), the olives and the focaccia are sinfully delicious, but don’t stuff yourself since more is to come. Soup is a good way to carry on (from the starters £5-£8.50), with a minestrone that's light and yet comforting, with a great variety of fresh vegetables. The rucola and parmigiano salad (salads - £4.50-£10.50) is small, but it's crafted with exceptional care: the cherry tomatoes are particularly sweet, the parmigiano slivers large and the rucola uncompromisingly fresh.
For your piatto forte, you can choose between pizza (£6.50-£8.90), pasta (£8.50-£17.90) and a main of meat or fish (£12.50-£19.90). Pizzas are exceptionally good value - they're traditional and well-cooked, ensuring that you'll have no complaints. Likewise, even a simple penne arrabbiata is very satisfying: the pasta is al dente, the sauce flavourful and the dish well presented. The side dishes (£3-£4.50) are just as good, with the spinach and the lentils both recommended.
Make sure you save some space for dessert (£4.50-£5.50) as the selection is sinfully good. The pannacotta is a rich cream mousse, beautifully flavoured by Madagascan vanilla, while the tiramisu is a good version of the classic. The ice cream is how it should be - creamy, smooth, indulgent and rich.
The Drink
The drinks list is concise but well thought out. There are a dozen bottles of wines (from £16) to choose from, mostly from Italy, with a somewhat standard selection that's got just about enough choice for most. A few beers, a good selection of Champagne (from £40) and soft drinks provide the alternatives.
The Last Word
Forty Dean Street does what it should and it does it well, namely providing quality Italian food in an authentically colourful and welcoming atmosphere.
Forty Dean Street has been reviewed by 9 users