409 Clapham Road,
Clapham,
London,
SW9 9BT
0871 971 4920
The ViewLondon Review
Laid-back modern French dining in a Manhattan loft-style setting.The VenueHidden down a Clapham side street with a members’ club-style buzzer, Four O Nine’s location gives it an enigmatic glamour usually absent from the predictable Clapham restaurant scene. Climbing the steps onto the New York feel, fairy-lit terrace, it’s as if Carrie Bradshaw and Mr Big might pass by at any moment.
The AtmosphereInside is a warm, candlelit room punctuated with dark wood features, sepia prints and a strangely pleasing view of Clapham High Street. It is a small area which creates a relaxed, intimate atmosphere, perfect for a romantic meal or a special occasion.
The FoodHead chef, Iain Smart, comes from celebrated Wandsworth restaurant, Chez Bruce, and continues the tradition of modern French cooking at Four O Nine. The menu is short and seasonal, as it should be The fennel smoked salmon is delicately flavoured and quite special. However, the goat’s cheese and endive salad contains an overwhelming slab of cheese, where less would have been more.
Aubergine can be tricky, and the aubergine caviar's saltiness overpowers the delicate fillet of sea bream. But the roast rump of lamb is tender and the rosemary jus has a rich flavour. The creme brulee has the silky creme and thick succulency of brulee which makes this a queen among desserts, when done right. A Neal's Yard cheese plate is predictably tasty. It's not quite Chez Bruce yet, but this is good cooking nonetheless.
The DrinkGuests can perch at the retro style bar for a pre-dinner drink. The imaginative cocktail menu would give any West End mixologist a run for his money - the Very Berry cocktail is fruity but not too sweet. A Passion Martini was nice and light – the right balance of vodka to syrup. Moving on to dinner, there is a user-friendly wine list of over 75 global wines, put together by their own specialist.
The Last WordFour O Nine is still quite new but is already a jewel in the crown of the Clapham restaurant scene, with a local clientele thankful for an injection of New York fairy-lit sparkle on a grey Clapham night.