A Chelsea bistro with a local feel, Foxtrot Oscar’s welcoming atmosphere and value for money food make it a hit with everyone from regulars to international visitors attracted to the Gordon Ramsay name.

The Venue
Opened in 1980, Foxtrot Oscar attracted international attention when it was bought by Gordon Ramsay a few years ago. Although initial reviews weren’t exactly favourable, a new chef and new look has changed things up a bit. The space itself isn’t the greatest – it’s long and narrow and some of the tables are a bit of a squeeze – but they’ve capitalised on the small area with dark red walls and black and white photos, making it look like a warm, cosy bistro. There’s also a downstairs area, used as a space for overflow and also for private bookings, and it’s a bit more laid back – not least because of the nearly-risque artwork on the walls.

The Atmosphere
Service is pretty much faultless, with the welcoming, friendly staff proving that they can handle big groups and tables of two with equal attention. The clientele is extremely varied and whilst Chelsea locals tend to dine later at night and come in for Sunday roasts, earlier on in the evening the restaurant plays host to large groups out to celebrate and smaller parties from a surprisingly large range of countries.

The Food
Prices are reasonable for the area and the set menu (Monday to Friday for lunch, Sunday to Thursday from 6pm to 8pm) is good value at £18 for two courses and £22 for three. The a la carte menu subscribes to the Ramsay philosophy of offering a few dishes and knowing them well, and it pays off. A starter of English onion soup (£6.50) is outstanding, creamy and rich as opposed to the French-style broth. The sweet taste hints at cider, or something spicy and warm. Pea, broad bean and goat’s curd salad (£7.50) is simple but generous, with fresh greens, sharp goat’s curd and the interesting addition of scattered hazelnuts.

For mains, the seared Loch Duart salmon (£16) is given an Asian twist thanks to a topping of orange, and the additional fennel enhances the flavour of the fish, which is recommended medium rare. The only strange note is the green olives, which seem a bit too salty for the rest of the dish. The Goosnargh duck leg (£16) is very well cooked, tender with a good rich flavour. The accompanying beetroot chutney adds bright, vibrant flavours and the few cranberries in the chutney give the dish a hint of Christmas spice. Sides of sauteed courgette with parmesan and chips (both £3.50) are also worth ordering, the chips nice and fluffy and the courgettes fresh and flavourful. Desserts include a bitter chocolate mousse with brilliantly old fashioned raspberry ripple ice cream and a delicate cherry tart, with a scoop of hazelnut ice cream on top of a tart cherry coulis.

The Drink
The international wine list offers glasses from £4.50 and bottles from £15, definitely more than reasonable for the area. Staff are good at drink recommendations with the sweet, fruity Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand a good match for the strong flavours of the duck. As an aperitif, the deliciously crisp raspberry bellini is highly recommended.

The Last Word
Those intimidated by Foxtrot Oscar’s postcode – or the name behind the venue – shouldn’t be – it’s a restaurant that would stand out in any neighbourhood for its good food, welcoming service and local feel.

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