Reopened and restyled, Gordon Ramsay’s Chelsea classic is a venue most newcomers have on their to-do lists. For that reason, Foxtrot Oscar should come with a warning.

The Venue
Tucked ominously between Tesco Express and a bespoke bathroom furniture shop, Foxtrot Oscar feels like a dentist’s waiting room with its brown and cream interior and soulless L-shape. They’ve gone for unpretentious comfort but the result is cold and nondescript - you could stare at the wallpaper and never come back. The setting does succeed in making the food the main attraction, but it will have to be a heck of a comeback.

The Atmosphere
The off-Chelsea location mean you might have your pick of the room, and it’s a shame that the real buzz comes from the private function area downstairs. The service is friendly and attentive, but there’s none of the warmth or magic of a special local bistro. Foxtrot Oscar isn’t about Old Etonians or Sloane Rangers anymore – it’s about a handful of disappointed tourists. In quiet moments (and there are plenty) you’ll be expecting the man himself to come swearing out of the kitchen demanding a rethink.

The Food
Melt-on-the-tongue salmon rillettes are creamy and light, and the wild boar and chestnut pate is a subtle and fragrant introduction for sceptics. But Foxtrot’s flair for glory days-style English comfort food ends here. The sea bream with fennel is tough and plain, and the Foxtrot fishcake, promising so much with its signature status, is dry, over-fried and wafts same-old-fishcake parsley from the first bite. The Classic Waldorf Salad is nothing you couldn’t produce on your own, and the same tired mixed leaves are served with everything.

Portion sizes are contemporary and keep you ordering, and prices aren’t too over the top at £10 - £15 for most mains. However, like the setting, you’ll be wondering what the fuss is about. Everything’s a bit too dull and plonked into place. The rum baba provides a much-needed kick (in fact, it should come with an age restriction) but by now it’s too late.

The Drink
With so much Britishness on the menu, it’d be fun to see the same on the wine list. Instead there are uninspiring New Zealanders and the usual French bank-breakers. The Bucchus Reserve from the Tenterden Estate in Kent has a crisp lightness which will go with most of your choices, and there are a couple of speciality ales to keep a beer fan happy. It can be irritating, though, when water is the only soft drink in sight.

The Last Word
Your date won’t like it. Your mum won’t like it, even if she’s being polite. Foxtrot Oscar might do for a business lunch, but you’ll be left wondering how much of your visit was down to celebrity allure.

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