49 Dean Street,
Soho,
London,
W1D 5BG
0872 148 1927
The ViewLondon Review
Follow in the footsteps of partisans and poets at this veritable Soho landmark. Just don’t ask for a pint.The VenueSituated just off Old Compton Street, this tiny pub with a fascinating history has long held the title of ‘Soho institution’. The French House was the meeting place for the French Resistance in London during World War II and then became the haunt-of-choice for a disparate group of post-war writers and artists that included Dylan Thomas and Francis Bacon. Although those glory days are gone, the ghosts of old reprobates still seem to haunt the wood-panelled interior, and the hundreds of old photos lining the walls never let you forget its raffish youth.
Upstairs at French House there’s a small restaurant offering a pleasingly calm contrast to the hubbub of the bar. Tables are decked-out in crisp, white linen and large windows look out on the street below – great for people-watching while you wait for your food. However, the main bar area downstairs has just one small room, with limited seating provided by stools in the front and a handful of tables and chairs at the rear. Unfortunately, this means that it can get uncomfortably crammed at busy times.
The AtmosphereFrench House is still very much a magnet for bohos, eccentrics and more soberly-dressed souls in search of a quirky and individual place to drink. The bar staff are an attraction in themselves – being enthusiastically, disarmingly helpful and ever-so-slightly loopy. The absence of music and a strict no mobiles policy means that the art of conversation gets a welcome chance to flourish. This is the kind of place where you come for a quick one and leave in an amiable haze eight hours later, having swapped phone numbers with several strangers in unusual hats.
The DrinkAs befits a pub that is practically a piece of French soil in the heart of London, wine is the tipple of choice here – with an impressive selection of wines, champagnes and ports to choose from. Kir Royale, an addictively-lovely aperitif, is another popular choice here – try one made with blackberry-based creme de mures. Beer, however, is only served in half-pints at French House, which some may find frustrating – and there’s only a smallish selection on tap, including Kronenberg and Guinness. However, these are complemented by a much wider range of the bottled stuff – including Duvel, Leffe, Old Peculiar and the much-admired Breton cider.
The Last WordThis historic pub could have rested on its laurels years ago – but no, The French House is still magnifique after all these years.
French House has been reviewed by 2 users