The Galvin brothers’ stunning restaurant atop the Park Lane Hilton caused quite a stir when it opened back in 2006. And with the Michelin judges pinning a star to its very attractive lapel last year, it looks like it’s getting better and better.

The Venue
Its lofty position above one of the capital’s most prestigious hotels is a pretty good start to proceedings, and although the Hilton itself is surprisingly underwhelming Galvin at Windows is most certainly not. An understated interior bathed in wood, white and olive is sleek and stylish, but you’re unlikely to spend much time casting your eye over Keith Hobbs’ very fine work when there’s so much to see out of the window. If you can bag yourself a prime spot at one of the tables that snake around the edge then you’re in for a treat, with completely unobstructed views out across the capital and beyond. It’s nothing short of spectacular, and when you can even take a cheeky look-see into the Queen’s back garden, you know you’ve arrived.

The Atmosphere
This is the very definition of destination dining, so expect plenty of very happy tables celebrating something or other, usually complemented by a nice little touch from the kitchen – you’re likely to see ‘Happy Anniversary!’ piped onto at least one dessert plate. The staff don’t seem to take custom for granted either, so are dab hands at making everything feel pretty special. And even though you might get the odd boorish suit with too much money and too much wine, the vista makes it all so remarkably tranquil that you really won’t care.

The Food
With Chris Galvin as Chef Patron and Andre Garrett at the pass, there’s certainly some impressive pedigree in the kitchen – a fact that’s not escaped those Michelin judges beavering away in their Parisian lair.

Everything’s as immaculate as you’d expect, and even a ballotine of pork (complete with chunky bits of black pudding) with crispy trotter (attractive little deep-fried spheres) and pickled apple and mustard on the side is delicate. Cured Loch Duart salmon shows the kind of dedication to provenance that you’ll find throughout the menu, and it works really well with the sweet Cornish crab, a luxurious avocado cream and light fennel compote.

The braised turbot is a very fine bit of fish, cooked to perfection and served with a couple of plump little oysters, linguini and some dish-changingly flavoursome cucumber… it’s rare to get excited by cucumber but it can happen, it appears. The drizzle of oyster and wasabi veloute brings it all together beautifully, even if it might take a very delicate palate to discern the wasabi. An astutely seasoned assiette of Pyrenean lamb is a little heartier, and all the better for it, with some seriously good meat served with well-matched herb puree and wild garlic bathed in jus de roti.

The cheese board is exceptional, and you’ve got the choice of the trolley, with expert advice seductively offered via a heavy French accent. If, however, you want something sweet then there’s plenty to get your teeth into, with the Manjari chocolate ganache being particularly good thanks primarily to the sprinkled hazelnuts and salted caramel. And just in case you’re still hungry you’ll be met with handmade marshmallows to keep you there just that little bit longer.

The Drinks
It is a place in which to celebrate, so you’re likely to see plenty of bubbly being sipped, and there’s an extensive selection of Champagne available, ranging from by the glass options (£12.75 - £35) right up to bottles of vintage Louis Roederers at over a grand. If the Champagne selection is extensive, it’s dwarfed by a very impressive wine list that features the best of France and beyond, and although it might look a little daunting, the expert service extends to the sommelier.

An impressive number are available by the glass, with prices starting at a very reasonable £4 for a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc but if you do want to push the boat out then you can easily do so, taking in the Loire Valley (try the Domaine Champalou Vouvray at £39), Burgundy (a great selection of Chablis), Luxembourg, Austria, Italy, Spain, the US and Australia… and even Tasmania. So be prepared to try something new.

The Last Word
It’s lofty heights may offer unparalleled views of the capital, but the food ensures it remains head and shoulders above most of its competition. A remarkably good restaurant that’s worth saving up for.

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