Perhaps the most accessible of the Galvin brothers’ four London restaurants - and the most affordable - Café a Vin offers the kind of excellent bistro cooking synonymous with this culinary pair.

The Venue
It’s a little difficult to inject much character into any of venues around Spital Sqaure - big banks loom large and there’s something of a flat-pack feel to many of the units – but the alfresco tables sitting under Café a Vin’s canopy at least hint at what’s in store. Okay, so you’re hardly likely to feel as if you’re on the banks of the Seine but inside there’s definitely an air of the Parisian bistro, albeit with just enough modern touches to avoid it descending into cliché. Deliciously Gallic accents welcome you into a charming little restaurant kitted out in warm, dark woods, empty Bordeaux bottles, Parisian vistas and even a wonky table to offer some real authenticity. But it’s not all French fancy – bright copies of Jeremy Plumb-esque portraits are dotted around and there are still those views out toward an area of east London in which modernity spoons tradition very snugly indeed. And so Cafe a Vin is a good fit: a contemporary, very London take on a classic French bistro.

The Atmosphere
Is pretty much spot on. This is one of those restaurants to which you’ll head for a quick lunch before suddenly realising darkness has descended and furnished your speech with a slur. If you’re heading down a little later then there’s even more charm, thanks primarily to its size – this is as cosy as cosy gets, especially if you can nab one of the corner seats where settling in for a session becomes all too easy. It doesn’t seem to be hugely popular with the City boys and girls (they’re more likely to be at La Chapelle – the Galvins’ Michelin starred venue next door), with most of the clientele finding what Café a Vin offers in abundance: somewhere informal in which to enjoy some excellent, affordable food.

The Food
The Bib Gourmand bestowed upon Café a Vin last year shows what this place is all about – namely quality food that offers some impressive value: whatever you may think of Michelin’s stars they usually get their Bibs spot on, and they’ve done so here too. The quality is excellent throughout, with head chef David Stafford not afraid to veer away from France to introduce elements from elsewhere, most notably Italy, where an authentic wood oven does much of the work.

Escargot a la Bourguignonne (£9) are a good place at which to start, though they are incredibly faithful to the dish you get across the Channel, so probably not a good choice for those on dates. If you’re happy to smell of garlic for a week or two then go for it – huge snails are dressed in a rich, perfectly balanced garlic butter that’s great for dipping the equally impressive bread (no cover charge).

If it’s on, the seafood risotto (£7) is another one to try, with creaminess giving way to al dente bite via a liberal studding of prawns, clams, mussels and monkfish. It’s perfectly seasoned and probably big enough to constitute a main, if you’re feeling dainty. A superb bavette (that all too rarely seen cut known here as a flank steak), belies its reputation for toughness thanks to some excellent handiwork at the grill, but it’s a fascinatingly potent parsnip puree that really sets it off, smeared elegantly amidst a scattering of very rustic roasted veg.

The tart tatin with vanilla ice cream (£6.50) is pretty much spot on, and probably the best choice for any sweet teeth but it’s the cheeseboard (£8.50) that really impresses. Swill it down with a port (try the Les Clos de Paulilles from Banyuls - £6.50) and you should – if you have anything anywhere near a decent palate – be very happy indeed.

The Drinks
Cafe a Vin boasts an impressive wine list of its own, with a very admirable number bins (including those bearing the Galvin name) available by the glass and the bottle. They’re not all French - in fact one highlight is an Italian white (the 2010 Monte del Frá Custoza - £27) - but there is a slight slant toward our friends over the Channel. It’s a well-thought out and well put together list that will no doubt keep the vast majority of diners happy but if you’re looking to impress, and if you ask very nicely, they’ll bring through that huge book of a list from next door. And anyone who’s visited La Chapelle will attest to its pretty peerless cellar.

The Last Word
Windows and La Chapelle may have the Michelins but this superb little restaurant – in its own way – is every bit as good. Brilliant cooking, a charming venue and remarkable value: understated dining rarely tasted better.

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