With a truly authentic French feel, Gastro is more Montmartre than Clapham High Street. However, with poorly prepared food and unreasonable prices, there’s definitely more Gallic style than substance on offer here.

The Venue
In terms of image, Gastro has it all. Neighbouring the Clapham Picturehouse, the salubrious Sequel bar, and the Venn Street art gallery, its location is choice. As decor goes, it’s French all the way, with beautiful coloured glass windows, nicotine-stained walls (damn that smoking ban!), traditional brasserie decoration, and a long bar with a gelateur at one end, for oysters and lobsters on ice. Its simple tavern style tables are perfect for a romantic meal for two, and there are bigger tables towards the back for larger parties.

The Atmosphere
There’s an intimate atmosphere here, and with the help of the decor you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in a Parisian backstreet brasserie. The waiters are friendly, if a little absent minded. Come in during the day when it’s less busy and you’ll find a seat by the long bar, perfect for a coffee or pastis and a chat with the patron.

The Food
If it sounds perfect so far you’ll be sadly disappointed! The good news is the food is not all bad: there are quality pastries and coffee for breakfast. In the evening soup de poissons is delicious and if you’re feeling flush the plateau de fruits de mer de Gastro is a high point. However the moules marinieres taste dry, and the cotollettes d’agneau come in a measly portion. As a whole, food seems to be either under- and over-cooked, which given the seriously high prices is a real shame. Still, it doesn’t stop the locals coming in their droves, to what in every other sense is the perfect restaurant venue.

The Drink
There is a decent, if limited selection of wines on offer which in a nice touch are served by the pichet as well as the glass. Cafe au lait is fantastic - a strong, pure blend of coffee served in authentic French style; and there’s an impressive range of digestifs and apperitifs to start or end your hit or miss meal.

The Last Word
While not without some saving graces (breakfast being one), Gastro could and should do better. Although it looks great and the atmosphere is a treat, there’s definitely a feeling of style over substance here, with unremarkable food, inflated prices and a seemingly indifferent management. However, if you’re willing to take the risk, you may get lucky, and will enjoy a truly romantic French setting regardless.

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