An unpolished gem that serves little surprises with its decent standard Turkish fare.

The Venue
Even though Upper Street is not as busy as its neighbouring hubs of Angel and Highbury & Islington, it still holds its own. In fact, many prefer this street-in-between to its crowded counterparts because even though it is fairly busy, this strip still retains that endearing little-town-street quality. The strip is occupied by quaint shops and independent restaurants patronized by locals. It seems Gem picked the right place to settle. Even though its exterior looks like a Middle Eastern generic, the sturdy interior holds some edge; the farmers' tools motif (rakes, paddles and transporting tools) hung high on the white walls and ceilings call for a double take around this snug but roomy rectangular chamber.

The Atmosphere
Mellow, Middle Eastern music fills the nearly empty space; dinner service has barely begun. But it could also very well be the speedy service that is the reason for the seemingly poor show of patronage: the shaky table is immediately tended to, and the food and drinks follow swiftly. Engage in a jovial conversation with the staff if you're looking for a reason to linger.

The Food
Complimentary starters are prepared by the lady in the front - she makes a doughy and oily flatbread on a convex gas stove and fills them with thin layers of three different fillings: lightly spiced potatoes, mildly spicy chewy cheese spread, and vegetables - you get one of each. The mixed barbeque set (Mixed Izgara - £8.95) arrives soon after. It is a dish that consists of salty chicken shish, a slightly charred but fresh and chewy lamb shank, tender lamb shish and a fatty lamb doner served with a side of overcooked rice and a very plain salad. Dress the meats with the house condiments - cold, thick yogurt or spicy chilli sauce with a strong herbaceous kick - for added depth.

The Drink
Gem will graciously serve you tap water if none of the juices (£1.50), soft drinks (from £1.50), beers (from £3.50), hard liquor (from £2.50), sherry (£3.50), port (£3.50), sparkling wines or wines (house wines at £10.95 per bottle) on the exhaustive list tickle your fancy.

The Last Word
Comfortable atmosphere, decent food, plus a handful of complimentary dishes. If these aren't enough, arrive before 7pm and order above £8 worth of food to get a free dessert. Do point this deal out on the menu - they tend to forget.

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