A tourist trap at the best of times, this Greenwich pub opposite the Cutty Sark nonetheless impresses with fine food and drink.

The Venue
Although it takes its name from another ship, the Gipsy Moth is most notable for looking out directly on to the newly-reopened Cutty Sark, in the heart of maritime Greenwich. Its considerable beer garden is practically in the shadow of the impressive galleon, and as a result the pub is a natural favourite of sight-seers and tourists. Inside, the nautical theme is reflected in the garish gold figureheads mounted behind the semi-circular bar, and in the black and white prints of boats and sea-farers lining the walls among the blackboards and pot plants.

The bar is contained in a central circular area ideal for large groups, while the space immediately outside these walls is dedicated to dining – there is an additional upstairs room, complete with leather sofas and a marble fireplace, should the ground floor reach full capacity. The whole venue is remarkably well-lit, with skylights and an all-white colour-scheme playing to its advantage, especially on sunny days. The beer garden, preceded by a sheltered terrace which is useful during rainy spells, provides adequate outdoor seating among its many garden tables, painted a distinctive orange.

The Atmosphere
Extremely popular among tourists as well as students from the local university, the Gipsy Moth can at times fall victim to its own success – although the location is excellent and the view spectacular, the open-plan seating can lead to a tense, stressful atmosphere, and the noise levels make it hard to relax, even in the relatively secluded dining area. The staff are nice enough, but slightly dismissive of a mainly transient crowd, and the music is average, if it can be heard at all. That said, the venue is tailor-made for work parties and large groups – including the Cutty Sark staff – and the beer garden is a panoramic haven if the weather is right.

The Food
For all its shortcomings, the food at the Gipsy Moth is very respectable, not least the giant Sunday roasts (£10-£14) which come with a full complement of Yorkshire puddings and veg. The weekly menu sticks to a similar, tried-and-trusted formula of hearty British cuisine, with a predictable emphasis on fish – the wild salmon fishcakes with crème fraiche (£9.75) are superb, and the house fish and chips (£10) are up there with any in Greenwich. Burgers, steaks and pies are available for meat-lovers, while subtle vegetarian dishes and relatively light sandwiches (£7-£8) are also on the cards. No surprises, but no discernible drop in quality either.

The Drink
The drink on offer here is often interesting, with a rotating list of ciders and ales available on tap (beer enthusiasts are advised to check ahead for any particular upcoming favourites), and not too expensive considering the pedigree. Veltins and Hoegaarden cost under £3.80 a pint, and the temptation to charge tourist prices is largely resisted. Taking a vast, ever-changing selection of wines and a solid list of cocktails into account, it’s safe to say that the Gipsy Moth doesn’t take its drink lightly.

The Last Word
Although its excellent menus and famous neighbour command respect, the Gipsy Moth suffers somewhat from over-exposure and a hectic atmosphere, albeit through no fault of its own.

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