The challenge of finding a decent fish and chip shop in London comes from the fact that so many are so poor. Golden Union, however, is a rare find in the capital, triumphing over so many of its soggy, greasy rivals.

The Venue
Located on Poland Street in the heart of the West End, Golden Union is a proper chippie in an area peppered with various fancy and pretentious restaurants. With a canteen-like appearance, the focus is clearly on the food rather than the furnishings, even if the venue is nevertheless clean and bright. Fronting the restaurant is a take-away and waiting area, with extensive seating available around the back for those who choose to dine in at the price of a few extra pounds.

The Atmosphere
Offering service with a smile (something of a rarity in Soho), Golden Union’s atmosphere is friendly and the service quick and efficient. Expect fellow diners to be a mix of local workers and those coming from further afield, sniffing out Golden Union from its glowing reputation.

The Food
Despite being focused, unsurprisingly, around various types of fish, the menu does not disappoint true chippie fans with its variety of home-made pies, battered sausages, and chip butties.

Haddock or cod and chips seem to be the most popular dishes here, and can be purchased for under £10 – a relative bargain in W1. Portions are incredibly generous, with melt-in-the-mouth flakes of fish and glorious golden batter which is fried to perfection without dripping in grease. The thick cut, crisp chips with fluffy insides are made from Maris Piper potatoes and are great with Golden Union’s delicious homemade tartar sauce. Other tasty accompaniments on offer are the mushy peas, tangy curry sauce or gravy - the northern favourite.

Further fish options include coley, the cheapest dish at under £6, pollock, rock salmon or plaice, all of which range between £7 and £9. Seafood such as battered king prawns with sweet chilli dip and breaded scampi are also available for under £9, as well as deliciously light homemade fishcakes, made with Japanese breadcrumbs.

Golden Union also offers a range of popular homemade pies, including steak and ale and the less oft-seen tomato and vegetarian sausage pie. Purists can also tuck into the kind of classic battered sausage and chips or saveloy and chips offered in any traditional fish and chip shop - quality is again, high.

The Drink
Serving the expected variety of canned drinks and fruit juices, as well as a selection of teas and coffees, Golden Union surprises by offering a number of alcoholic drinks too. Fully licensed, the restaurant has a selection of six beers, and a couple of white and red wines are available at decent prices either by the glass or by the bottle.

The Last Word
Clean, efficient and serving delicious fish and chips, Golden Union is a rare find in London. It's a must-visit for a no-nonsense, hearty and filling lunch or dinner.

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