When Goodman, the Russian-owned steak restaurant group, opened their first site in the capital on Maddox Street in Mayfair, it quickly became revered by foodies in search of the best steak in town. Now, at a time when the City seems to be shedding the shackles imposed by the downturn, Goodman have created a bigger and bolder temple to steak, whilst maintaining the same unquestionable quality that made its arrival such a big deal for steak-lovers.

The Venue
In the tumultuous cauldron of London’s dining industry, restaurants come, restaurants go. It’s pleasing to see personal favourites like Goodman prosper as it’s undoubtedly one of the finest purveyors of steak in the capital; one visit is enough to leave you smitten and hankering for a premium slab of their marbled rib-eye.

The latest Goodman improves on the original’s design: the venue is bigger, airier, slicker and nicer to look at than the Mayfair branch. Exposed piping snakes across the ceiling, semi-circular chocolate button-down booths provide the perfect place for a hot date and there’s a frosted glass ceiling visible on one side of the restaurant that conjures up visions of a by-gone era. They’ve also made good use of the vast space as there’s enough room for a separate bar area to serve up Meantime beers without encroaching on the restaurant.

Considering the eastern origins of the company, it’s clear they look to the States for their inspiration: the name comes from a jazz player, black and white shots of America line the walls and you can even hear jazz music echoing in the background.

The Atmosphere
Already reservation-only on a Friday night, given the address there’s a surprisingly high quota of women, something of a relief as no one wants to be surrounded by a roomful of braying jocks as you’re whispering sweet nothings into the ear of a loved one. Staff are well on the money, from fielding random questions about the beef and preparation to being attentive but leaving you alone to enjoy the meal, they’re very impressive.

The Food
Whilst there are several starters (£7 - £11) and desserts (£3.50 - £6.50), a trip to Goodman should be for one thing: the steak. Sourced from the US, the British Isles and Ireland, and even Chile, the meat is dry aged in-house and broken down into several cuts with descriptions of the size and how the cows are fed – corn, grain or grass. The Goodman rib-eye (£29) is a thing of wonder – a thick, manly cut (it’s served at a huge 400g), with a salty, charred exterior and a crimson centre, you are given a knife that would impress Crocodile Dundee to eat with but you could literally pull it apart with your fingers, such is its supple qualities. Golden chunky chips (£4) and a tart béarnaise (no charge) are the perfect complement. Equally good, if a little leaner and less substantial in size, is the fillet (£25 for 250g).

The Drink
Of particular note is the fact that you get draught Meantime ales and lager at this new Goodman - a surprising but very welcome sight in any restaurant. A substantial wine list is geared up to its City clientele, with the lively, intensely fruity Salice Salentino (£29 a bottle) a wise choice from the cheaper end of the spectrum.

The Last Word
The rest of the menu is merely window dressing at Goodman. Go straight for the steak and a bottle of red and prepare to fall under its spell - this is quite possibly the best place to eat steak in the capital.

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