Cheap it is not, but as long as you’re not weirdly picky (the tablecloth is the wrong colour! I want a hamburger!), you will love Gordon Ramsay at Claridges.

The Venue
Gordon Ramsay at Claridges is, as the name suggests, to be found in Claridges, a grand hotel in the heart of Mayfair. The main dining room is a large, high-ceilinged art deco job - but the real highlight is the leather-clad, mirrored Fumoir next door, where you can enjoy a glass of champagne or a cocktail before your meal.

The Atmosphere
Tables in the dining room are reasonably far apart, so you won’t be able to hear what other people are chatting about. There is, though, a pleasant low-level hum of conversation; it’s the sound of people who have said, Fuck the cost, I’m going to enjoy myself. The waiters and waitresses are as professional and French as you would hope and expect.

The Food
Eating at Gordon Ramsay at Claridges, as in a number of high-end restaurants, can be a rather confusing affair. There’s an a la carte menu, a set lunch menu, and then a Menu Prestige – ie, a tasting menu. The chef, must be a busy man.

While the former two are impressive, the big dog here has got to be the Menu Prestige. This changes fairly regularly but on a recent visit it included: a mosaic of foie gras and Goosnargh duck, seared diver caught scallop, cannon of new season lamb with smoked bacon plus three other dishes. Beautifully cooked and superbly presented gastroporn, basically.

Particularly recommended is the cheese, through which you are guided by the cheese sommelier (cheese waiter? King of the cheeses?). The Exmoor Blue is a treat.

The Drink
The wine list is beyond extensive, and predictably expensive: from Burgundy to New Zealand and from California to somewhere else they grow pricey grape booze, it’s all here. Never fear, though, the sommelier will guide you through it and pick you a wine in your price bracket (as long as your price bracket is above about £40.00 – that’s petty much the cheapest wine they’ve got). You can also have a glass of champagne or a cocktail before your meal, but this isn’t really a beer sort of place. Sorry.

The Last Word
Gordon Ramsay at Claridges is one for a special occasion: high cost food in a beautiful setting.

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