The fact that this is the 50th outlet in the Gourmet Burger Kitchen chain bears testament to the success of a simple formula that elevates the humble burger to gourmet status. Luckily, despite the proliferation of GBKs springing up around the capital the quality of the food has remained consistently high.

The Venue
This branch of Gourmet Burger Kitchen is slightly tucked away on Clink Street, above the Clink Museum, so it’s hard to imagine it attracting much in the way of passing trade, especially given the temptations of the nearby foodie heaven that is Borough Market. Inside, the exposed brick, plastic red chairs, high ceilings and bright lighting give this GBK a utilitarian feel and it’s hard to escape the feeling that you might be dining in an extension of the penitentiary below.

The Atmosphere
In a slight twist on the usual format the Clink Street branch of GBK offers table service rather than placing your own order at the counter. The reasons behind this departure are unclear but the attentive staff make it a welcome one. The restaurant is also more spacious than some other incarnations of the chain, which affords more opportunity to linger and digest. It’s possible that this Gourmet Burger Kitchen is looking to further distance itself from fast food also-rans and provide a more relaxing environment for patrons.

The Food
For those familiar with GBK the menu will hold no surprises but the saying ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’ has never been more apt. With 28 choices on the menu the second most difficult part of dining at GBK is deciding what to have. The menu ranges from the simple choices such as the classic, cheese and barbeque through the more exotic like the Mexican and the Greek to the plain bizarre Kiwiburger combining beetroot, pineapple, cheese and egg. The beef burgers are all 100% Aberdeen Angus but there is also a good selection of chicken, lamb, and even a buffalo or wild boar option. Veggies are also catered for and not just with a token bean burger. With combinations such as the aubergine and goat’s cheese or falafel, hummus and chilli sauce, even the curious carnivore might be tempted. And if by some remote chance you can’t find something you like there is always the option to build your own or add extras to the already bewilderingly extensive selection.

What all the burgers at GBK have in common is the fact they are cooked to order and it shows on arrival. The burgers tower above the plate and are held in place by one or more skewers running through the middle. Which brings you to the biggest challenge of GBK – how to eat the thing. Whether you chose to wade in with both hands or attempt to dissect it with a knife and fork or some combination of the two, be prepared for things to get messy!

The Camembert and Cranberry chicken burger (£7.95) makes the most of ingredients that are known to work well together. Breaded, juicy chicken breast is complemented by a tangy cranberry sauce. Generous chunks of Camembert almost threaten to overwhelm this dish but it’s hard to fault the end result as the hot chicken melts the cheese into a delicious, gooey consistency. If you are feeling more adventurous then the Kiwiburger should fit the bill. Cutting into this burger it’s hard not to be impressed by the colourful strata provided by the bright purple beetroot, green lettuce and vibrant yellow egg yolk. To the uninitiated the Kiwiburger might sound strange but the sweet, sour and salty elements work in harmony rather than competing for attention.

If all this sounds a little daunting, then you might be best off cutting your GBK teeth on one of many menu options at Clink Street that comes in a smaller size. This is ideal for those who might want to indulge in a portion of GBK fries – delicious, thick cut, skins-on chips accompanied by a homemade dip (or trio of dips for the truly indecisive). The smaller burgers are also a little lighter on the wallet, which in these cash strapped times might prove beneficial. With the more expensive burgers, such as the Buffalo, weighing in at £9.95, a dinner at Gourmet Burger Kitchen is not always a cheap option.

Clearly the restaurant doesn’t expect many people to have room for dessert, as the only option is a small selection of Ben and Jerry’s ice cream. You might be better off undoing the belt a notch and ordering a coffee.

The Drink
Any seasoned Gourmet Burger Kitchen veteran will tell you that the only way to wash down your burger is with a milkshake. At £3.65 the vanilla shake manages to be simultaneously light and frothy on the top and thick and creamy as you get closer to the bottom. These huge shakes are the real thing and come served in the metal shakers. As you would expect chocolate and strawberry are also all on the menu but if you’re feeling adventurous you can always opt for the lime, which is surprisingly good. However, be warned, for some the milkshakes could almost be considered as a meal in a glass themselves.

If you are in the market for an alcoholic beverage there is a surprisingly good selection of wine by the glass and bottle. Prices per glass start from £3.40 but again watch the prices at the top end or you could end up doubling the cost of your dinner with a bottle of the Dashwood Pinot Noir at £18.75. Unsurprisingly, New Zealand is represented throughout and this extends to the beers. There’s also ale and organic cider on the menu.

The Last Word
It’s Gourmet Burger Kitchen – but not quite as we know it.

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