Clapham’s popular Grafton House is undergoing some changes, including a new outdoor area and a new chef, David Thackrey, but it still looks set to be a favourite with the locals.

The Venue
Grafton House is, although not a large venue, spacious enough for both its bar and restaurant incarnations. It can easily used as either or, and many do take only take advantage of the bar’s charms. With its bright and airy seats by the large windows (opened up in the nice weather), the sweeping bar dotted with sparkling lights or the low, red squishy sofas or spacious tables, the bar is a perfect place for everything from a romantic drink to a spot of people watching to a chatty evening with friends.

Head towards the back, make your way up a few low steps and you’ll find the restaurant. The open kitchen is along one wall with the tables and cream suede chairs arranged in front of it. Lining the other walls are enormous, semi-circular brown leather booths that can easily seat anyone from two to half a dozen diners. Nearly everywhere in the room offers a straight on view of the stars of the show, the chefs. There’s also a brand new alfresco area if you fancy eating outside.

The Atmosphere
This being Clapham, nearly all the patrons here are thirty-somethings out to relax after work, whether with their partner or with a group of friends. Because of the different areas there’s something for everyone here, from an intimate meal to a quick drink. The low lights give the place a moody, almost romantic look, and combined with the decor it feels opulent, but not over the top. Staff are capable without being excessively friendly and they always seem one step ahead of the game.

The Food
Grafton House restaurant has a seasonal menu that changes fairly regularly, but their emphasis is on fresh, seasonal food. The food is creatively put together and presented without being overly fiddly, and portions are significant. Prices aren’t terribly shocking, even for the area, with starters at about £7 - £8 and mains from £11 - £17.

Starters include a Portobello mushroom with roasted peppers and melted goat’s cheese (£7), a good choice as the creamy cheese combines perfectly with the firm, meaty mushroom. Also a good choice is the king scallops with avocado cream, tortillas and mango dressing – although it seems like an odd combination, the flavours are a complementary mix of richness and tanginess and the scallops are large and succulent. It’s all topped off nicely with crisp, homemade tortilla chips, perfect for scooping up what you can’t get with your fork.

Mains are divided into pasta, fish and meat, and the pastas are available in a smaller form as well for a starter. The rabbit tagliatelle (£11) is divine, although if you’ve indulged in a starter you might want to opt for the smaller portion as it’s very filling. The rabbit meat is dark and tender, with an almost smoky flavour, whilst the tagliatelle is fresh and on the softer side of al dente. Fillet of Cornish sea bass (£11.50) comes dotted with tiny shrimps and capers, and the soft fish tastes meaty but light thanks to the sharp lemon and thyme sauce. Side dishes aren’t necessary with the large portions, but the seasonal vegetables (mange tout, broccoli and cauliflower) are fresh and crisp and the potato mash is smooth and creamy.

If you’ve overindulged a bit during the meal but still want a dessert, the passionfruit jelly with apple sorbet is recommended, as the tart jelly and sweet sorbet are satisfying without being too heavy. Served in a martini glass, it’s attractively presented and bright and colourful. The dark chocolate tart with raspberries is a bit more indulgent, with a deep, rich chocolate flavour that you’ll try valiantly to finish off.

The Drink
It’s highly recommended that you stop off for a drink at the bar before your meal, as the innovative cocktail list is highly tempting – and not too expensive, either, with most drinks priced at under £7. The blackberry martini is mixed well, and given a hint of sweetness to balance the sharp vodka taste thanks to some apple puree. The raspberry bellini is fizzy and sugary, with the ripe taste of raspberries coming through nicely.

Over in the restaurant, the wine list is a reasonable size and divided by type of grape, with bottles from across the globe mixed in. Bottles range from about £16 to about £40 and many options in between. A couple choices are available by the glass for about £4, including a thick but refreshing 2004 Chilean Caliterra sauvignon chardonnay and a 2007 Chilean Alameda sauvignon blanc that complements the fish dishes.

The Last Word
If you’re in Clapham and can’t decide between a few quick drinks or a long, intimate dinner, head over to the Grafton House and take your pick. You might wind up staying much longer than you’ve anticipated.

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