Nobody knows how to do casual chic quite like the Aussies. The popular Australian chef Bill Granger has opened his first restaurant in our fair capital - and yes, it's casual, but also very, very good.

The Venue
Granger and Co is an example of using neutrality to create an impact. Far from the identikit chain restaurants that seem to cover London, this bistro keeps it light and airy to create a feeling of laid back chic. The exterior is starkly white with small, subtle signage in pale blue and large pale green canopies overhanging the street, and the large building cuts an impressive figure, looking subtly upmarket with huge windows offering glimpses of what’s within.

Inside, the décor is simple with white and cream walls, clean white tables and a mix of brown sofas and yellow chairs. The windows flood the space with light and the airy nature of the large building balances out the fact that the tables are sandwiched in a little too tightly.

The Atmosphere
Granger and Co doesn’t accept bookings and has created quite the foodie stir since its opening, so you can expect to wait. And wait. And wait. In fact you may end up hanging around for up to an hour at peak times to be seated. Still, everyone is pretty good natured about it and those willing to indulge in some Alton Towers style hanging around will be rewarded. And the staff are incredibly welcoming and friendly so you hardly begrudge the time spent glaring at those people taking a little too long over their post-dinner coffee.

The Food
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Granger and Co has all the bases covered. The dinner menu has a focus on Asian-influenced dishes mixed with British classics, offering good-sized portions and simple but strong flavours.

To start, the feta with chilli and spring onions is a light, cold starter that makes a nice change from the usual bowls of olives. For just £2, it’s also a steal. The unusual mix of the tang of the cheese and its underlying creaminess mixing with a sharp hit of chilli and spring onions is unusual and a bit hard to get your head around at first; however, it does work as an unusual opener to your meal and is nice to nibble on as you chat during the wait for your main courses.

The pure beef burger with beetroot, tomato relish and courgette pickles (£11.80), is certainly recommended - it bizarrely tastes almost healthy. The burger is light and cooked perfectly to specification, and the patty clearly home made. The beetroot adds an earthy note to the dish while the tomato relish is sweet and light. The courgette pickles are unusual and the vinegary hit brings it all together nicely. Alternatively, the sirloin steak (£19.50) is also a good example of the skills of the kitchen with the slab of beef lovingly prepared, tasting tender, rich in flavour and again cooked perfectly how you like it (a medium rare steak arriving pink and juicy). It comes with some innovative herb-encrusted chips, which adds a rich dimension of flavour and means that there’s no need for self-seasoning with salt and pepper.

The Drink
They do a nice choice of aperitifs, with a focus on palate-cleansing cocktails. This is especially nice if you’re stuck waiting at the bar for a table... which you probably will be. Priced at £7-£8.50, they needn’t break the bank, either. Alternatively, they do a good choice of bottled beers, including Kirin Ichiban, Moretti, Camden Pale Ale, Meantime Wheat Beer, Meantime London Stout and Weston’s Organic Cider, although it’s a shame that there are no draught options. The wine list isn’t too lengthy and the choice is varied with a focus on new world bottles priced between £20 and £57.50.

The Last Word
This is an example of where London’s restaurant scene might be going. As people tire of pomp and turn their backs on the crass nature of flash-the-cash eateries, places like Granger and Co fill the void with a focus on simple quality. A refreshing addition to the capital.

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