No real name, just a symbol – remind you of a certain diminutive musician? It's certainly a bold statement, so just how much of a superstar is this Holborn hot spot?

The Venue
It’s touristy around these parts – not least thanks to the proximity of Covent Garden – but this restaurant doesn’t play to the crowd. There’s no name on the awning, just an enigmatic symbol and the address – ’32 Great Queen Street’. The awnings themselves hang low like big bushy eyebrows and the use of a symbol rather than a name – a crown with a knife and fork on either side – is kind of charming. It also gives it a slightly standoffish look, as if it’s more for those in-the-know than those merely passing-by. Finally, it’s tempting to think it might be a nod to the massive Freemasons’ Hall across the way - the headquarters of the United Grand Lodge of England - which is rather fond of a sign and symbol or two itself. Inside, it’s simple: wooden floors and maroon walls that become low-lit and moody come nightfall. The welcome, though, is anything but.

The Atmosphere
The staff power this place; you’re very much in their hands, and they’re good hands to be in. They’re an impressive bunch, as if they’re proud of the project in which they're involved. The barman downstairs in the cellar bar space seems as enthused about the menu as diners, and servers, in their blue and white pinnies, treat their customers superbly well.

The Food
There is no starter/mains/desserts demarcation and the descriptions are simple. So much so that menu reads like a list of very fine ingredients rather than dishes, and part of the allure of the place (which suits the nameless sign) is the sense that you’re not actually too sure of how things are going to be prepared and presented.

Expect dishes like poached salmon, new season’s borlotti and wild sorrel (£16); cockles, saffron and clotted cream (£6.80); St Tola, radishes, cucumbers, mint and samphire (£5.80); minute steak (£16); and a rib of Hereford beef with chips and bearnaise (£52 for two people). Sides are minimalist in description, too: greens, herb salad or new potatoes - that's it. There seems to be a reassuring assurance that they don’t need to mention cooking techniques or seasonings because they know that what they do, they do it well.

Starters of rillettes (£5.80) and ‘Great Queen Street ham’ (£8) are impressive, with the former served with crisp toast and cornichons and the latter with great chunks of excellent bread and some super-sweet nectarine. Both plates are fantastic and you kind of get the feeling that ingredients this good leave you more satisfied – in terms of hunger-sating – than twice the quantity of lesser stuff.

One main, described plainly as ‘mushroom pie’ (£24, for two people to share), is a pastry-and-filling combo that reminds you of what pies are really about – so savoury that even the most enthusiastic carnivore might not mind the absence of meat (or whatever passes for meat in many pies these days). Pies get a bad press, but these little puppies are well worth a try.

Fried pig’s cheek, dwarf beans, rocket and anchovy dressing (£13.80) is a little hard to handle. The accompaniments are superb and the deep-frying of the pig’s cheek flawless, but the ratio of fat to meat is far too heavy. Even a warning of how fatty it can be doesn't feel like adequate preparation.

Desserts included greengage and almond tart (£6), white chocolate semifreddo and summer berries (£5.80) and crème caramel (£3.80). The pistachio milk and brownies (£4) are worth a shout, offering an agreeably unusual match-up.

The Drink
There are a few drinks included at the top of the menu, so that they appear as an essential extra course (recalling the ‘savoury’ that used to form part of meals in a certain English tradition). ‘Ginger beer, made here’ (£1.80), bramble and prosecco fizz (£4.60) and Oracle, Salopian Brewery, Shropshire (£3.20) are all on offer, and the way they're offered is a cute touch. The wine list is extensive and the number of samples offered are alone sufficient to cause a degree of sozzledness. The Portugese Douro (Vinha da Palestra, 2008 - £20.70) is a top notch choice, so keep an eye out for that one.

The Last Word
You don’t need any funny handshakes to get in, but you’ll feel like you’ve been let into a pretty exclusive club after a night out here. And one that's probably a whole load more interesting than the Freemasons.

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