Charmingly old fashioned with a loyal clientele, Greens is still going strong after nearly 30 years.

The Venue
Greens is located in the esteemed neighbourhood of St James’s, but despite looking like a restaurant that would have been quite popular in the 19th century, it was only opened in 1982. Dark browns and deep reds lend an old fashioned, gentleman’s club feel, with framed sketches and political cartoons decorating the walls. Seating is a mix of open, well spaced tables, perfect for lunch with friends, and more intimate, discreet booths that line the walls. These seem better suited to a business meeting, especially as their sweeping dividers make it difficult to see who’s dining in them.

The Atmosphere
Greens’ clientele might have been attracted to the restaurant during the excess of the ‘80s but they’ve remained loyal right through to today’s penny pinching times. It’s not unusual for Greens to be fully booked, especially during lunchtime, when the large bar in the centre of the restaurant buzzes with activity. The owner, Simon Parker Bowles (Camilla Parker Bowles’ ex-husband’s brother, in case you were wondering), dines here every day for lunch and a few times a week for dinner, whilst some of the clientele are here so often that they have their own tables. Everyone who crosses paths in Greens seems to have known each other for years.

The Food
The menu is mainly a mix of fish and meat dishes, and the prices are no surprise considering its location and reputation. Starters range from about £6.50 to £20, whilst mains range from about £16 to £30. Most of the dishes are ones you won’t forget in a hurry, and although the prices might be restrictive to some, the restaurant’s regular clientele are not ones to budget too tightly.

Greens’ famous oysters are well worth ordering. Half a dozen plump and healthy-looking Colchester rock oysters arrive on top of a crushed bed of ice with all the usual condiments: Tabasco sauce, sweet and sour vinegar with finely chopped red onion, and half a lemon in muslin tied up with a ribbon. There’s no fiddling about detaching them from their shells as this has already been done for you at the business end. The oysters taste like they’re fresh out of the sea, and are a good indicator of the quality of food on offer. The salmon fishcake is served in a large round ball, lightly fried on the outside and packed with salmon within, its intensely rich flavour cut through nicely by a salad of light, sweet shredded fennel.

The grilled halibut with Hollandaise sauce is an impressive sight. Despite looking thick and meaty it’s actually a delicate cut that is beautifully constructed on the bone. The Hollandaise sauce, along with some sides of buttery wilted spinach and chips, are the perfect complements. One of the restaurant’s signature dishes is the Haddock Parker Bowles, named, of course, after the owner. Whilst the smoked haddock on top is nicely cooked, the mash resting underneath the fish is a revelation – incredibly creamy and smooth, with a smoky, more-ish flavour. This, combined with a glossy poached egg on top, makes for a great warming winter dish.

Desserts continue in same tradition of British classics, including Bramley apple crumble, rhubarb mousse and the more unusual chocolate bread and butter pudding with whisky custard. Sticky toffee pudding, one of their more popular choices, is a bit dryer than you’d expect, but the inclusion of caramelised pieces inside the pudding is a nice touch.

The Drink
The wine list is reasonably priced for the area, starting at under £20 for quite a few bottles and heading up to about £250 for the pricier ones. Whilst most of the wines are French, two dozen New World wines also grace the menu, along with some interesting bottles from Austria and Hungry. The 2007 Sancerre Les Chasseignes, Domaine Claude Riffault (£36) tastes clean and crisp and works well with fish dishes.

The Last Word
The hearty British food and gentlemen’s club-style atmosphere are what gave Greens its reputation in the 1980s. Nearly 30 years on, not much has changed – why mess with success?

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