Promising ‘good bistro food at non-scary prices’, the name practically invites diners to find something wrong with it. However, Grumbles has been around long enough to know how to get it right.

The Venue
Grumbles has been around since it was £12 a week to rent a premises in Pimlico… that’s a long time ago (1964 to be precise). Unfortunately, these days a steak costs more than 9 shillings and sixpence. Still, the history of the place seems to seep out of the very walls and the French bistro appeal of the small space is cosy and appealing. Brick painted over in white contrasts pleasantly against the swathes of warm wood, and the simple blackboards and tables unadorned by fancy tablecloths has a certain charm in keeping with what's on offer.

The Atmosphere
It may be called Grumbles but the customers here seem anything but unhappy. Instead, the cosy space and friendly staff create a pleasant, chatty ambience full of peals of laughter that instantly make you feel comfortable and ready for a good meal. The service is efficient and restaurant etiquette is observed so you’ll also feel well looked after.

The Food
A mixture of hearty European and British classics makes up the menu at Grumbles. The portions are decent so you can easily have just a main and leave satisfied, although if you want to go all out you won’t have to break the bank, with starters and desserts coming in at around the £5 mark. For mains, a leek and shiitake mushroom risotto for just under a tenner is a hefty dish with perfectly pitched rice that remains light, complemented by a good amount of oniony leek and earthy, plump mushroom pieces. Perfectly seasoned, it’s a great vegetarian dish. Alternatively, the good old-fashioned fish and chips is a solid example of the famed meal for just over a tenner. The fish, battered in a delicate beer batter, is fresh and light and goes well with the mushy peas with their underlying mint flavour. Good bistro food indeed.

The Drink
Wine is order of the days at Grumbles, with a well priced, decent house bottle (Domaine Des Pourthié Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon) costing just £13.50. If you have a bigger budget then the wine list extends up to almost £50 a bottle and the range covers a good choice of grapes and regions to suit most tastes. Not sure what to order? The staff are confident in making good suggestions so don’t be scared to ask.

The Last Word
Grumbles does exactly what it sets out to – it’s no wonder it’s been going for so long. A surefire recession winner.

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