It’s a little more corporate than when the local butcher set up shop back in 1948, but Harry Morgan would surely be happy that New York deli-style fare this good is still being served in his name.

The Venue
Sitting proudly on the lush and leafy streets of St John’s Wood, Harry Morgans sweeping orange signature can be seen from halfway down the road, which isn’t really necessary considering the column inches and celebrity endorsements it’s received over the years. However, it’s a handy little beacon that sets the scene for a venue that combines tradition with modernity to good effect. A jet black awning hovers over a smattering of alfresco tables and chairs at the restaurant’s front, whilst inside is a sleek combination of buffed mirrors, soft blacks and creams that hint at a recent, very modern makeover. This design-led feel is softened nicely by a few fake flowers, pictures of yesteryear and the smiling black and white face of Mr Morgan himself as he welcomes you at the door.

The Atmosphere
With its enviable reputation and the plethora of wealthy folk that live in the area, Harry Morgans is usually a bustling little place, full of both lucky locals as well as those coming from further afield to sample what they’ve heard such good things about on the grapevine. And as they dine the place fills with jaunty chatter and appreciative ooh and ahs from all and sundry. The staff play their part too, having that rare relaxed nature that makes you feel at home straight away. And they know their stuff too so don’t be afraid to ask.

The Food
Whether you’re looking for an introduction to Jewish-style, New York deli food or just a nostalgic taste of home then you can find both here, with excellent examples using fresh ingredients being the norm throughout what’s an extensive and varied menu. The starters are appetising enough, with the famous chicken soup (£4.95) being an absolute must, not least because its reputation is so peculiarly impressive for such a humble dish. But once you try it you can see why, with a thin yet incredibly rich, well seasoned broth sitting atop soft, fresh noodles. It tastes even better with a couple of kreplach (75p each) - al dente dumplings filled with good quality, peppery corned beef. The chopped liver (£5.85) is every bit as good, even though it’s served with some ever-so-slightly limp lettuce. The pate has a fantastic salty, meaty richness to it that goes well with an accompanying scattering of boiled egg and the sweet rye bread and crackers already on the table.

The hugely popular Jewish staple, the hot salt beef sandwich (£8.95), is done really well, with lashings of lean, succulent and good quality beef served in some more of that excellent rye bread. Hot mustard is, politely, served to the side so you can add according to taste – something that’s not always done, especially not in the comparitively inferior Brick Lane bagel shops. The boiled gefilte fish (£9.50) is decidedly traditional, and for those that grew up with it you can expect this to be exactly as it should be. However, those that aren’t au fait with this type of cuisine may find it a little odd. It tastes nice enough - a gentle hint of white fish – but the texture (think thick, soggy bread) is strange. Probably just one for the locals.

Desserts are very tasty indeed, with the traditional kosher dishes being particularly impressive. The lokshen pudding (£4.45) is a delicious, homemade creation of noodles, egg, sugar and almonds served with the gentlest hint of bite, and the cheese blintzes (£4.45) are a sublime combination of sweet and savoury – soft ricotta cheese rolled up in a pancake and served with whole blueberries and a sweetened blueberry sauce. The apple strudel (£5.45) is a sweet-tooth’s dream with nicely spiced apple set in a rich pastry and served with some of the tastiest vanilla ice cream in London.

The Drink
Typically of a venue this relaxed and informal, yet perhaps not typical of the location, the wine list is solid enough without allowing itself to become too extravagant. Options rise slowly from £10.50 for a soft, fruity and pretty excellent house red, through to a sharp, clean and floral white Burgundy at £17.50. If you prefer beer then bottles of Kronenbourg (£3.75) and Peroni (£3.25) are about as good as you’re going to get but if you’re looking to keep things totally tee then you can sup on anything from pomegranate juice (£1.95), carrot juice (£1.95) and ginger beer (£2.10) through to strawberry milkshakes (£3.95), Victorian lemonade (£2.10) and some impressively strong coffee (£1.95).

The Last Word
If you’ve grown up on kosher-style, New York deli food, then Harry Morgan’s is an absolute must – serving up dishes that’ll ensure those memories come flooding back. If you’re not, then go anyway as this is great food served at surprisingly good prices in one of the most relaxed restaurants in London.

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