Helene Darroze at The Connaught combines gourmet cuisine with excellent service in a subdued but sophisticated atmosphere.

The Venue
Located inside the super posh Connaught Hotel in Mayfair, Helene Darroze is a small venue on the ground floor of the hotel. It's accessible through its own entrance, or through the matching Coburg Bar. The intimate space has seating for about 60 guests or so, all centred around preparation tables where you can watch the staff expertly put the finishing touches on your food.

For a place that resides within a historic hotel, Helene Darroze at The Connaught is surprisingly contemporary. The room is brown and white with mustard accents and the furniture is modern with clean lines. It works well in this intimate space; though it's small, it still seems quite open and bright with views onto the posh Mayfair streets.

The Atmosphere
The service is impeccable, as you might expect, with a staff that caters to your every need. At times it can be a bit overbearing, but most of the guests here, a combination of business people and small parties of sophisticated leisure diners, don't seem to mind.

The Food
French chef Helene Darroze has won two Michelin stars for her celebrated restaurant in Paris, so it's no surprise that she's brought her signature French dishes with her to the new restaurant in London. The three course set lunch menu comes with several choices of starters, entrees and desserts, including foie gras prepared au torchon and roasted hake steak.

Portions are small and presented beautifully but simply on plain white dishes. Darroze obviously wants to keep the focus on the food, which is extremely rich and filling. The foie gras is salty and smooth while the hake is a bit tangy and roasted so perfectly that it literally falls apart in your mouth. Dessert is, by far, the best course, with the simple fruit salad with Greek yoghurt sorbet offering a surprisingly refreshing medley of flavours. Expect an indulgent amuse bouche or two along the way as well, like the aged prosciutto from the south of France. All the different types of bread, of which there are many, are baked on site and offered along with both unsalted and salted butter. Best of all, the set lunch menu is only £40, though that doesn't include drinks. Dinners, however, are more expensive, with a three course menu coming in at £75 and a nine course tasting menu costing £90.

The Drink
If you have time, start with a cocktail in the matching and connecting Coburg Bar next door, which arranges its extensive menu by date of invention. It's a fun way to learn about the history of your favourite drinks while treating yourself to a well-crafted aperitif.

Helene Darroze at the Connaught itself is all about wine. Upon arrival, guests are immediately offered a glass of champagne to sip on while perusing the huge wine list that tops 40 pages. A friendly sommelier is on call at all times to help guests through the 30,000 bottles of wine that are kept in the cellar and make recommendations. Watch out for the prices, though, as the cheapest bottles are £29 and whilst there are a few in the £30 range, many go well into the thousands. There’s even a bottle for £19,500, an 1895 Chateau Lafite Rothschild. However, there are many choices by the glass and by the half bottle as well. For the discerning teetotaler, there's a huge range of coffees and teas, including the special coffee and tea menu (£5), which are each specifically paired with chocolates from Paris (£8).

The Last Word
Whilst it’s clear that some guests of Helene Darroze at the Connaught are looking to impress, this restaurant is really meant for people who appreciate food.

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