Former head chef of St John Bread and Wine settles into Hereford Road, and his new home is worth a visit.

The Venue
They really do make it easy; Hereford Road is located on the road of the same name, so no excuses about not being able to locate it. This road branches off Westbourne Grove, placing Hereford Road on the border of the residential and commercial areas of Notting Hill.

This once Victorian butcher's shop now sports a simple and chic black-framed front. Upon entering, one will notice the open plan kitchen that lines the left wall and petite half-moon jazz bar booths that line the right. The kitchen and booths end halfway through the length of the restaurant, and there is a drop in altitude; steps lead down into a cosy cube-shaped dining area. The central focus of this arena is the glass hole in the middle of the ceiling. Daylight and moonlight filter in, reconciling the 4-to-6-seater American diner booths that line the left wall with the classic dark wood standalone tables and chairs occupying the rest of the parquet floor.

The Atmosphere
Hereford Road, the restaurant, is a perfect fit with its neighbourhood - both convey a certain importance of privacy through their peaceful exteriors, but once you're inside you're extended a genuine welcome. Behind the heavy glass door of Hereford Road awaits a rush of fresh and robust vapours. Seating is either in a dark and romantic walkway or a bright and refreshing dining area at the back, and you can expected the latter to be filled with ladies who lunch and buddies who brunch. A meal is a private and leisurely affair here, aided by the casual and confident staff who are knowledgeable and passionate about and towards their own food and establishment.

The Food
Changed twice daily, the menu comprises of modern uncomplicated British plates with a homely factor. A typical meal can begin with a salad of grilled Jerusalem artichoke, dandelion and boiled egg (£5.40). The dish is well-salted and slightly tangy. When you start to eat it, a warm sensation will stir in your throat, then countered by the cold, custard-centered boiled egg.

The wood pigeon (£12.80), rare and oozing red, is gamey but not overpowering. The taste of blood is mild and only serves to enhance the chewy but tender flesh. The dish, served with a side of sprout tops, lentils and a slice of toast smeared with pate, is done expertly. The slice of toast may seem unnecessary, but it gives the meal an interesting balance. And it is not just with the unfamiliar meats that Hereford Road excels - a dish like roast plaice and saffron courgettes (£13) also shines. The crispy-skinned plaice retains a moist, flaky interior, and the side of courgettes its natural sweetness and fibre. While lemons have a tendency to overpower a dish, a squeeze of lemon completes this one.

Hereford Road goes the unusual route with its chocolate cake (£5.50): the torte-like cake is served at room temperature with a side of clotted cream. Although it has a comfortable sweetness and airy quality to it, it lacks the richness that usually comes with chocolate cakes and extreme temperatures (be it chilled or oven-hot), not to mention the indulgence that a scoop of vanilla ice cream might provide.

The Drink
To go by way of glass, it would be a selection of six whites (£2.50 to £3.10/125ml) or four reds (£2.50 to £3.50/125ml). The Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhone, Chateau de Roquefort 2005 (£2.60/125ml), proves to be an excellent choice - full-bodied, swirling with berries and innocently malicious with pepper. If you want to up the stakes, there are wines offered at 1/3 bottle (£4.90 to £6.50), and at least sixty served by the bottle (£12.50 to £144).

The Last Word
Hereford Road is regularly booked for dinner. Lunch is less of a rush, but it has already attracted a few regulars. It goes to show that even with its peculiar dessert, Hereford Road manages to strike the right chord. This is definitely one neighbourhood restaurant to look out for.

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