The ultra-discreet exterior and understated decor of this recent addition to central London’s top-end dining scene do nothing to warn you of what is to come. Hang onto your gastronomic hats for an astonishing and deeply satisfying culinary adventure!

The Venue
It would be easy to walk past the tasteful and oh-so-discreet front of this small and special restaurant on a wealth-oozing little road of shops and restaurants just off Regent Street. Inside, all is calm efficiency in a gently modern, grey-green, wood-panelled dining room of only 45 covers.

The Atmosphere
This may be a temple to fine dining but there is none of the awkward, hushed reverence which mars other venues of this calibre. Instead, the warm intimacy of the room and totally unstuffy service engender animated conversation among the well-heeled Mayfair patrons at their generously-sized, well-spaced tables. Lyon-born chef Claude Bosi and his maitress-d’ wife Claire transferred their two-Michelin-starred operation from Ludlow to the capital and the move was much-hyped, so there’s a frisson of anticipation, too.

The Food
The Winter 2008 menu is brief, and the pricing policy simple: £60 gets you a choice of six starters, six mains and five puddings (or cheese), with the odd £10 supplement here and there. There’s also a set, no-choice Taste of Winter Menu of starter, fish course, meat and desert at £62.50, or a seven course Surprise Menu at £75, both of which must be taken by the whole table (which will consist of a maximum of six diners, as Hibiscus won’t take larger bookings).

Gorgeous little warm choux puffs full of melted cheese bodes well (although on a recent visit when a gin and tonic which turned out to be gin and soda water). An amuse bouche masquerading as a soft boiled egg with the top cut off is in fact carrot soup and soft egg yolk topped with coconut foam. It’s inventive, well-executed and delicious, a good indicator of what’s to come.

Starters include half a dozen lightly poached oysters on their shells with baked Camembert cream, raisin and Granny Smith apple. Oysters are so exquisite, it’s hard to see why anyone would want to do more than just shuck them and treat them to a squeeze of lemon, but this rather weird-sounding idea works surprisingly well. Just slightly warm, the oysters retain the glorious texture they possess when raw. The tiny dice of raisin and apple is an interesting additional texture and taste, and somehow chef Bosi even gets away with lacing the plucky little bivalve molluscs with the Camembert cream. Almost as good is a tartare of scallops and green mango bound in olive oil with a veloute of sweetcorn, the tartare fresh and delicate, the soup, theatrically poured over it at table, satisfyingly rich.

Onto the mains: a generous fillet of John Dory comes with air-dried ham, roasted root vegetables with ras el hanout (a Middle Eastern/North African spice blend), cream of candied chestnut and gherkins. The fish is a generous, perfectly-cooked fillet and, despite the potentially inharmonious variety of accompaniments, no jarring note is sounded, such are M Bosi’s skills. The humblest component, the roasted roots, is perhaps the loveliest, the clear, distinct flavours of turnip and beetroot shining through. Organic Scottish salmon is cooked in olive oil, a technique which has become trendy of late and leaves fish looking raw but tasting meltingly soft and succulent. The accompanying confit of fennel is mild and squidgy, champagne rhubarb injects a welcome tartness, dill puree shines and wasabi and honey dressing is nowhere near as intrusively hot or sweet as one might fear.

A refreshing layered pre-dessert involves apple, artichoke, and chestnut puree. Then comes pudding proper, gratin of banana and coffee with black treacle syrup and banana compote. It’s gratifyingly banana-y, with a lovely crisp, grilled top and a separate little pot of top-quality coffee ice cream. In many restaurants it would be the star turn but such are the standards at Hibiscus, it’s pushed into second place by chocolate tart with Indonesian basil ice cream. The tart is actually a warm, liquid-centred fondant in a crisp, wafer-thin, chocolate pastry case. Both it and the accompanying ice cream with its clear, fragrant basil flavour are utterly sensational.

The Drink
The wine list is more of a book, running to 46 pages and taking in classic fine wine regions including Bordeaux and Burgundy plus New World destinations like America and Australia among many, many others. If 20 minutes of detailed study isn’t your idea of a fun night out, there are two pages of recommended wines at the front, starting at under £20, and available by the glass. Even though an ‘82 Chateau Latour will set you back £3,750, the temptation to overprice has been resisted at all levels. The young sommelier is an absolute delight, all but bursting with enthusiasm, knowledge and a desire to match wine and customer. Six dessert wines are offered by the glass (£6-£15). A request for tap water won’t raise an eyebrow, and glasses of both wine and water are assiduously but unobtrusively replenished throughout. Coffees come with a stunning selection of chocolates.

The Last Word
Those who like their food unfussy should steer well clear of Hibiscus but anyone who has enjoyed a meal at Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck at Bray (or dreams of so doing) will thrill to the outrageous daring and consummate skill demonstrated by M. Bosi and his team at this very special destination restaurant. What’s more, unlike at some temples of gastronomy where the portion sizes seem in inverse proportion to the high prices, you will wander out into the West End night pleasantly replete!

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