Hibiscus in Mayfair. I had high expectations for this place, they have moved the entire two Michelin star operation from Ludlow (losing those stars in the process), even going as far as keeping their local butcher and having the meat transported down. I suppose the saying 'if it ain't broke' comes to mind.
We started with a palate cleansing Hibiscus and soda cordial with smoked olive oil, which was light and delicate, and had a very interesting smokiness that came through at the end. So the tasting menu began. First came a seriously good Cauliflower puree, with blue cheese sorbet, then a salad of Crab, with Avocado, Acacia Honey and William Pear jelly round. If it sounds a little uninspiring, that's because it was. However beautifully it was presented, dotted with edible wildflowers, it was underseasoned and the accompniments didn't really let the Crab deliver it's light, flavoursome meat.
Next came a superb Carpaccio of Pollack, Black Raddish, Almond oil and Autumn Truffle Vinaigrette, followed by Seabass fillet stuffed with wild mushrooms and Kaffir Lime. This came with a little quinelle of beautifully flavoured Chestnut and Caper sauce and confit Parsnips. Very well cooked, great depth of flavour with lighter touches of Cardomom in the quinelle.
Following this we had what is becoming a signature dish at Hibiscus, Fois Gras ice cream on warmed Brioche Emulsion and Balsamic caramel. This is one of those Bacon and Egg ice cream dishes. On their own, each part tastes none to great, but when placed on the tongue together you completely understand the skill of the chef and what he is trying to acheive. Very accomplished dish. Our main arrives next, Grilled Veal with Old variety root vegetables and fresh Goats cheese. Sadly this was a let down. The vegetables were expertly cooked, absolutely delicious. But the Veal was a little chewy, very underseasoned and lacking in flavour, and the Goats cheese had no flavour to speak of.