High Timber

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 4 reviews

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8 High Timber,
London,
EC4V 3PA

(020) 7248 1777

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byTracey Davies01/08/2011
South African food is not all biltong and braais. Tucked away along the EC4's riverside walkway is High Timber, a smart City dining room which matches great plates of food with fine South African wines.

The Venue
High Timber's good reputation certainly doesn't rely on passing trade. Its modern glass facade is hidden away in a little nook under Millennium Bridge yet it's blessed with cracking views of the Tate Modern and The Globe. Inside the décor is all smart clean lines, gorgeous heavy wood trappings and pale green walls decorated with colourful African artwork. Downstairs is home to one of the City's largest wine cellars holding an impressive forty thousand of bottles of wine, many of which come from Jordan's Estate, the co-owners' vineyard back in Stellenbosch. For real wine aficionados check out the super-cool private dining area in the heart of the cellar.

The Atmosphere
This South African-influenced restaurant seems like a real City boys hangout with the clientèle very much of the suited-and-booted variety. Easily accessed from the beating heart of London's financial district it attracts local professionals in search of good steaks and fine wines. Many have the distinct guffaw from the Cape Peninsular, no doubt here for a taste of the homeland - either that or they're craving the biltong. The staff are attentive and professional, albeit not all as charming as they could be. Despite a buzzing hum in the dining room, the lights are a little too bright and there's no ambient background tunes leading to a slight lack of atmosphere.

The Food
The menu here at High Timber is nicely rounded with a couple of nice, well-hung (28 days minimum) steaks on offer, a handful of fish dishes and an interesting vegetarian option. The courgette, pesto and mint soup (£6.95) is a delicious summer soup bursting with good fresh flavour, a vivid colour and finished off nicely with a drizzle of fresh pesto. The Foreman's London-cured smoked salmon is equally good. Startlingly pretty it arrives on a glass platter with cucumber and shallot marmalade and rye bread (£10.50).

As for mains, you can't go wrong with the Lake District Cumbrian sirloin cut from the bone (£19.90/£29 250g/350g). Cut thick, it arrives both nicely charred and perfectly pink alongside a tower of onion rings, hot crisp chips and a vine of roasted tomatoes. There's a selection of flavoured butters available including an interesting one with biltong, however, the black Perigord truffle butter makes for a heavenly (but pricey - £4.30 a slither) accompaniment. The loin of Herdwick lamb with spring vegetables and a minted hollandaise is absolutely perfect, fresh and tasty but again a tad steep at £29 a pop.

When it comes to desserts, the head chef, Justin Saunders, certainly knows how to wow. The Kent strawberries served with rose wine jelly and strawberry and Szechuen peppers (£7.50) is almost too pretty to eat and is a divine bundle of flavours. The lemon cheesecake arrives with teeny-tiny elderflower meringues and a spoonful of tangy raspberry sorbet (£7.50), and is every bit as smashing.

The Drink
High Timber very much prides itself on its wines and rightly so. Co-owners (alongside renowned City restaurateur, Neleen Strauss) Gary and Kathy Jordan own the award-winning Jordan Estate winery in Stellenbosch, South Africa and import some of their finest tipples for the restaurant. There is a clutch of non-South African wines too, but when in Rome...

For fish and lighter dishes try the exemplary Jordan Chardonnay 2009 (£7.50gls/£30btl) which is full of ripe fruity flavour yet not overbearing. For a hearty red to match the meats, the Jordan Cobblers Hill 2006 (£12.50gls/£49btl) is a real treat. A blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes, it just bursts with deliciously smooth berry flavours. The house wines (Jordan Chameleon blend) come in at around £23 a bottle (£6 glass) for both the red and the white.

The Last Word
For great London views, fine South African wines and impressive food, High Timber definitely worth a visit. Just be prepared to make your own atmosphere.
High Timber has been reviewed by 4 users

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