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The Londoner's Guide to London
07 September 2008
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Homage

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Waldorf Hilton,
22 Aldwych,
Aldwych,
London,
WC2B 4DD

0872 148 3722 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review bySimon Lazarus14/11/2007
A part of the Waldorf Hilton, Homage provides a dramatic space in which to dine where you can enjoy the delights of Modern European cooking.

The Venue
Located just off Aldwych and within spitting distance of the throngs of Covent Garden’s many theatres and bars, this is an ideal spot for a pre- or post- theatre dinner. With influences taken from the grand cafes of Europe, there are touches of Louis XVI inspired decor from the high ceilings to the gilded pillars and tall chandeliers. This really is a dramatic setting in which to dine with tasteful modern art hanging proudly from the walls, aged oak wooden floors and contemporary leather banquettes.

The Atmosphere
Be prepared to have the experience of your very own exclusive dining room if you decide to book early, as the crowd can be almost non-existent in the early evening. However, as the night wears on this venue slowly fills up with hotel guests and cosmopolitan tourists so much so that you may feel you are dining somewhere in Europe. Service is relaxed and efficient with extreme professionalism shown throughout.

The Food
For starters try the French onion soup with a generous cheesy crouton that engulfs the whole of the rim of the bowl. Filling, sumptuous and almost full to bursting with plenty of caramelized onions; you can probably find another version which is richer and tastier in overall depth but this is not a bad effort. The chicken liver parfait is tasty and not overpowering. This comes with some toasted brioche which is a better alternative than some of the usual toasted bruschetta or sourdough bread that cooks in France usually favour.

Moving on to mains, the magret of duck is a little disappointing. Two chunks of chewy meat are served up either side of some lukewarm honey roasted parsnip. The duck could benefit from being sliced more thinly and evenly, but to give credit where credit is due, the parsnips are sweet and well cooked. The creamy sweet potato mash is inventive but lacks in seasoning, although it is an unusual side alternative. The classic rib of beef, however, is moist and tender with good flavours running throughout. Good marks have to be awarded to the chunky chips with copious amounts of fluffy potato inside. The Bearnaise sauce which accompanies the steak is rich, but a whole jug is far too much sauce - so much that it drowns the meat completely. A smaller pot would suffice. The braised red cabbage is enough for two people but is a little over done.

Desserts are also creative and the warm chocolate fondant is soft, gooey and has a sweet, warm melted chocolate filling. This comes with a scoop of caramel ice cream which is light and has a subtle enough perfume. Meanwhile the amaretto and caramel parfait with spiced butter tuile biscuit is a melange of interesting flavours. Mousse-like in consistency, with the amaretto providing a big kick, this dish is perfectly finished off by a creamy spiced butter biscuit.

The Drink
The majority of the wine accompanies the cuisine in its European roots. Try the house white which is another version of Chardonnay that is not too dry and certainly not lacking in body. Other options cover an extensive range from all around Europe that will make you stand up and pay attention. Homage’s list is almost as big as the pillars that are dotted around the restaurant.

The Last Word
You must pay homage to this venue at some point for the sheer jaw dropping outlay of the restaurant. The beautifully presented food, however, is let down by the overall execution which is inconsistent at times.
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